1997 Outback Legacy coolant leak and overheating
 

Hey i-clubbers, I was wondering if any of you had input on my girlfriend's car.

1997 Outback Legacy
144,xxx miles and has been fine for the last month but today it developed a coolant leak. When the radiator fans cycle, white smoke (smells like coolant) starts coming out near the passenger side fan. Reservoir tank was empty and the car overheated after a quick 4 minutes drive. Can I go ahead and assume this problem is isolated to the radiator itself? If so, do you guys have any suggestions for a reputable, local shop near Rohnert Rark/Santa Rosa?

Much appreciated!

Get radiator pressure tested along with the cap. Any local repair shop can do this.

It does sound like it is just the radiator. How about the radiator level? Empty or still had some fluid? Any smoke or smell from the exhaust or oil in the radiator fluid? Near that area would be LIC in Novato IMO, but yeah, any shop should be able to check the radiator. These OE radiators are basically plastic and it is more of a [I]when[/I] not if. Found that mine was cracked when I did my timing belt last year.

OP described white smoke, coolant smell when fans initiated. This happened to my impreza at around 130k miles OEM radiator developed a crack at the plastic inside and dripped near the fans. During the drive the temps would rise and as the fans kicked on it would blow whatever boiled over onto the engine. I'd check the radiator first.

a thermo will cause sudden overheating. white smoke that smells like coolant is prob the leak spraying coolant onto your hot block. i suspect rubber hose has cracked. last rad leak i had, it was the tiny rubber grommet at the top of the rad. the rubber cracked over time. at that point, i decided to change all rubber under the hood. havent had any leaks since :)
GL!

Oil looked fine, didn't notice any oil in the coolant that had leaked either. I think i'll try Automotive Excellence in Rohnert Park and hope it isn't a head gasket issue.

[QUOTE=jjtodd0612;3355876]Oil looked fine, didn't notice any oil in the coolant that had leaked either. I think i'll try Automotive Excellence in Rohnert Park and hope it isn't a head gasket issue.[/QUOTE]

not a bad idea. internal headgasket failure has been ruled out if there is no contamination. i have a strong feeling u have a busted hose. 16 years later, rubber is bound to fail. squeerze rad hoses. are they stiff? any bulges?

also any radiator woek done recently?
i lost all my coolant the first drive after replacing my thermo. i didnt torque bolts to spec and pressurized coolant leake out of thermo housing

Doesn't sound like head gasket based on what you said.

Mine wasn't even leaking yet though it had already cracked. It cracked off the fitting [I]inside[/I] the upper hose. When the hose was removed, the whole fitting came off with it. I got no smoke, no drip and no overheating so I was basically lucky that it hadn't failed yet.

Well I have an appointment tomorrow for 9:30. What would be the best way to top off the coolant? Also, what coolant can I safely use so that my girlfriend can limp the car home? I really appreciate your guy's help with this.

how far is the drive? Miles and minutes?

[QUOTE=jjtodd0612;3355884]Well I have an appointment tomorrow for 9:30. What would be the best way to top off the coolant? Also, what coolant can I safely use so that my girlfriend can limp the car home? I really appreciate your guy's help with this.[/QUOTE]

***NEVER WORK ON WARM/HOT RADIATORS***

with the engione cold, fill via neck in rad. keep rad cap open and start the car and give it just a little gas. this will purge any and all air bubbles in coolant (which can cause slight overheating)

coolant from oreilly will be fine to limp home. but NEVER run that oreilly **** on a long term basis. we have alum crankcase and internals and we need that finicky blend of coolant.

2.5 miles, about 5-6 minutes. I'm just worried because she said it went past the 3/4 point on the thermostat gauge on her way to work. I really don't want any more potentially expensive problems to arise.

[QUOTE=02RS25;3355888]***NEVER WORK ON WARM/HOT RADIATORS***

with the engione cold, fill via neck in rad. keep rad cap open and start the car and give it just a little gas. this will purge any and all air bubbles in coolant (which can cause slight overheating)

coolant from oreilly will be fine to limp home. but NEVER run that oreilly **** on a long term basis. we have alum crankcase and internals and we need that finicky blend of coolant.[/QUOTE]

I figure it will get a flush if the radiator needs replacement anyway so this sounds like a viable option. Thank you for the help.

I'd suggest a tow, but back in the day when something similar happened to me (had to go 12 miles to local garage to fix a radiator problem), I brought a couple gallons of water with me and just drove it. Kept an eye on the water temp, if it hiked up, I pulled over and put water in. Did this once.

Since I knew it was a radiator problem, I didn't bother buying coolant. It was just going to leak out anyway. The short trip with water would suffice.

[QUOTE=jjtodd0612;3355890]I figure it will get a flush if the radiator needs replacement anyway so this sounds like a viable option. Thank you for the help.[/QUOTE]
no prob. the rad can be cool to the touch, but the coolant can still be pressurized. proceed with caution. ive learned the hardway :(

side note: if for whatever reason the repair bill is out of your hands or you and the wife decide its not worth to fix...im always down for more scoobs! actually been looking for a pre 05 forester/outty.

but lets hope the reapirs are not extensive and she can get back on the road ASAP! good luck with everything! :thumb: