These are the best brakes you can get with out spending alot of money. After installation you will notice: shorter stopping distances, firmer pedal feel, and a huge reduction in brake fade. These four piston front brakes will work with nearly all 15" or larger wheels. The perrin kit eliminateds the need to remove larger brake kits to mount snow tires, rally wheels or track wheels. Perrin 4 POT front brake kit includes: Stainless Steal Brake Lines, Stainless Steel Bracket, Wilwood 4-piston caliper (Perrin Modified), Street Pads, All Additional Hardware for installation, and instructions.Does not fit STi models.
Author
EtchyLives VIP Member
Registered: November 2002 Location: Colorado Springs... FINALLY! Posts: 2513
Review Date: Mon September 6, 2004
Would you recommend the product? No |
Price you paid?: $400.00
| Rating: 5
Pros:
Relatively easy install, better braking under normal conditions
Cons:
pad changes are not easy at all, contrary to advertisement
Overall, my product review for the Perrin/Willwood Front brake kit is that they are a good product. However, you can save yourself the $400+ dollars and just upgrade your pads, lines, and fluid for about half as much.
I was looking for an upgrade for an upcoming track day. I had just completed a track day with stock calipers and porterfield R4S pads on the front of my 02 WRX Wagon, and was getting a lot of brake fade. (Note: I am a HEAVY braker) I found a set of willwoods on sale for $400 shipped so I decided to go for it. A friend had an extra set of Category \"B\" competition grade compund pads from willwood, so I swapped those out with the stock \"Q\" compound, daily-driver grade pads.
Of course, since this was a last minute purchase, I was swapping out these pads at the track prior to post time. I had read the literature on the calipers about the \"ease of pad change\" using examples similar to mine. Drive to the track on your normal pads, let the breaks cool down and swap out with your race pads. It\'s as easy as pulling the cotter pin and dropping in the race pads, doing a quick lap to bed in the pads and, VOILA! ready to race.
BS
I pulled the cotter pin and dropped the daily driver pads with very few problems, however, as soon as the pads were out, the calipers depressed all the way to the rotor. It took my mechanic friend and I almost an hour and a half (with his complete set of tools) to swap out the pads. Once this was done, I had time to do a quick break in, and it was track time.
The rest of my setup in my brake system is DBA Gold slotted rotors, and motul RBF 600 fluid.
My initial impression with the brakes was very good, however once I reached about lap 5 I was starting to get significant brake fade. By lap 7 I was forced to radically alter my approach to the course. The intial bite and tug of my brakes was completely gone and I was left with mush.
My stock caliper/Porterfield setup lasted through 9 laps before it got to this phase, and was still more effective.
Once I got home and changed out the fluid and pads, these calipers worked awesome for daily-driving pads. I would also recommend them for auto-cross. My guess is that since these are the \"dyna-lite\" calipers made of billet aluminum, that their heat soak/transfer ability is highly diminished from a heavier/larger caliper, hence the quick burn-out.
Once again, save your money and get pads, lines, and fluid, or get a good BBK by TVR, Brembo, or Stoptech.
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