Roo ducts
08-17-2013, 01:44 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Jose
Posts: 39
Car Info: '11 2.5i
Roo ducts
Anyone here run these? RooDuct Use and Installation | RooDucts
I'm experiencing brake fade with upgraded wrx rotors up front, DBA T3 clubspec rotors up front & dba 4000 slotted rotors in the back, goodridge stainless steel brake lines, hawk hp+ all around, rbf600, and a grimmspeed master cylinder brace.
If I do purchase these, I plan on removing my oem foglights, purchasing some sort of ducting/hose. Does anyone have any recommendations for mounting to the rotor shield/dust shield?
Thanks.
I'm experiencing brake fade with upgraded wrx rotors up front, DBA T3 clubspec rotors up front & dba 4000 slotted rotors in the back, goodridge stainless steel brake lines, hawk hp+ all around, rbf600, and a grimmspeed master cylinder brace.
If I do purchase these, I plan on removing my oem foglights, purchasing some sort of ducting/hose. Does anyone have any recommendations for mounting to the rotor shield/dust shield?
Thanks.
08-19-2013, 04:00 PM
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 383
Car Info: 2003 WRX
I have a set but have yet to install them. I plan to run them as he recommends first, to see if they are good enough (open ended, directing air towards the rotor). Ill be removing the dust shield entirely. The second step would be to cut a hole in the shield and run some dryer or metal ducting to the hole.
Im planning to use these. Then into dryer ducting, then into the roo-duct and left open. Ill go to step 2 if needed.
Are you still running stock calipers? I highly recommend picking up some oldschool wrx 4-pot calipers for the front, like these. I think you can even buy these re-man from places like rockauto for cheap.
Edit: just saw youve got a newer 2.5i, I dont know if those calipers will fit your application. If your hubs are the same as a 02-07 wrx then they will fit.
Im planning to use these. Then into dryer ducting, then into the roo-duct and left open. Ill go to step 2 if needed.
Are you still running stock calipers? I highly recommend picking up some oldschool wrx 4-pot calipers for the front, like these. I think you can even buy these re-man from places like rockauto for cheap.
Edit: just saw youve got a newer 2.5i, I dont know if those calipers will fit your application. If your hubs are the same as a 02-07 wrx then they will fit.
Last edited by Superusdm; 08-19-2013 at 04:06 PM.
08-19-2013, 08:07 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Jose
Posts: 39
Car Info: '11 2.5i
Thanks for the response! Yeah I think I will just remove the oem foglights and attach some dryer ducting like you mentioned.
I am running oem sized rotors. I would love to upgrade to the 4/2 pot setup from the 06/07 wrx's but from what Ive heard the difference would only be noticeable in pedal feel (firmness wise). Also the acutual surface area, despite more "pots", is actually less than oem. So I figure I'll stick with what I have and try the roo ducts next.
I am running oem sized rotors. I would love to upgrade to the 4/2 pot setup from the 06/07 wrx's but from what Ive heard the difference would only be noticeable in pedal feel (firmness wise). Also the acutual surface area, despite more "pots", is actually less than oem. So I figure I'll stick with what I have and try the roo ducts next.
08-20-2013, 11:13 AM
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 383
Car Info: 2003 WRX
The rotor is the same size, but I think there is a tad more surface area on the 06/07 pad. I have both sitting in my garage so I can measure when I get home.
From what I understand, having more pistons is all about heat transfer and distribution. Distribution to the fluid (perhaps youre boiling your fluid), to the pads, the the rotors. I used stoptech street performance pads on my stock brake setup with amsoil dot 4 and did not have much brake fade. The pads were cheap so I was happy. When I made the switch to the 4-pots, I roasted the hell out of the stoptechs in less than a day.
Im thinking the 4-pots also transfer more heat to the pads and rotors in a shorter amount of time than the stock caliper, creating more braking force. The stoptechs obviously couldnt handle track abuse using the 4-pots, I switched to hawk dtc-60s the next time I went out and the difference was unbelievable. It took me the entire day to get used to braking later.
Theres a tarck day on the 30th at thunderhill through NCRC, not signed up by any chance are you?
From what I understand, having more pistons is all about heat transfer and distribution. Distribution to the fluid (perhaps youre boiling your fluid), to the pads, the the rotors. I used stoptech street performance pads on my stock brake setup with amsoil dot 4 and did not have much brake fade. The pads were cheap so I was happy. When I made the switch to the 4-pots, I roasted the hell out of the stoptechs in less than a day.
Im thinking the 4-pots also transfer more heat to the pads and rotors in a shorter amount of time than the stock caliper, creating more braking force. The stoptechs obviously couldnt handle track abuse using the 4-pots, I switched to hawk dtc-60s the next time I went out and the difference was unbelievable. It took me the entire day to get used to braking later.
Theres a tarck day on the 30th at thunderhill through NCRC, not signed up by any chance are you?
Last edited by Superusdm; 08-20-2013 at 11:16 AM.
08-23-2013, 10:34 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Jose
Posts: 39
Car Info: '11 2.5i
The rotor is the same size, but I think there is a tad more surface area on the 06/07 pad. I have both sitting in my garage so I can measure when I get home.
From what I understand, having more pistons is all about heat transfer and distribution. Distribution to the fluid (perhaps youre boiling your fluid), to the pads, the the rotors. I used stoptech street performance pads on my stock brake setup with amsoil dot 4 and did not have much brake fade. The pads were cheap so I was happy. When I made the switch to the 4-pots, I roasted the hell out of the stoptechs in less than a day.
Im thinking the 4-pots also transfer more heat to the pads and rotors in a shorter amount of time than the stock caliper, creating more braking force. The stoptechs obviously couldnt handle track abuse using the 4-pots, I switched to hawk dtc-60s the next time I went out and the difference was unbelievable. It took me the entire day to get used to braking later.
Theres a tarck day on the 30th at thunderhill through NCRC, not signed up by any chance are you?
From what I understand, having more pistons is all about heat transfer and distribution. Distribution to the fluid (perhaps youre boiling your fluid), to the pads, the the rotors. I used stoptech street performance pads on my stock brake setup with amsoil dot 4 and did not have much brake fade. The pads were cheap so I was happy. When I made the switch to the 4-pots, I roasted the hell out of the stoptechs in less than a day.
Im thinking the 4-pots also transfer more heat to the pads and rotors in a shorter amount of time than the stock caliper, creating more braking force. The stoptechs obviously couldnt handle track abuse using the 4-pots, I switched to hawk dtc-60s the next time I went out and the difference was unbelievable. It took me the entire day to get used to braking later.
Theres a tarck day on the 30th at thunderhill through NCRC, not signed up by any chance are you?
I would love to track my car one of these days but with the lack of a turbo, I feel that it would not be that fun. On the other hand, I will be racing in my spec miata at Sonoma on the 28th with NASA
12-30-2013, 12:09 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1
Car Info: 94 impreza wagon
Hi guys, sorry to take so long.
I just went to the PRI show and in talking to other brake people, NOT attaching the air to the hub is probably better for most users.
Testing the hose shows the smallest kink to absolutely kill flow through it compared to a perfectly straight run.
Just pushing the hose with a finger makes the manometer drop significantly and that's a small change compared to twisting and turning to get to the hub.
A backup of pressure helps stack air at the fog light and redirect the air around the car rather than forcing it into the opening.
I just went to the PRI show and in talking to other brake people, NOT attaching the air to the hub is probably better for most users.
Testing the hose shows the smallest kink to absolutely kill flow through it compared to a perfectly straight run.
Just pushing the hose with a finger makes the manometer drop significantly and that's a small change compared to twisting and turning to get to the hub.
A backup of pressure helps stack air at the fog light and redirect the air around the car rather than forcing it into the opening.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Krinkov
Bay Area
13
01-30-2005 11:00 AM
