bringndefinitio

iTrader: (6)

I was trying to install my stoptechs today but I ran into a little problem. I was trying to loosen the bolt on the hard line and it stripped. I was wondering if that part can be replaced or do I have to puchase the whole brake line setup which cost about $120 at the dealer? the pic I took form scooby mods illustrates the nut I was trying to loosen

Impala SS AutoX

iTrader: (21)

So, I'm gonna assume you were using a flare-nut wrench (if "no", why not? Yes, it matters )

You MIGHT be able to fix this by doing the following. Get a GOOD pair of vice grips, NON-flammable liquid wrench, and a torch (i.e. propane). Spray down the junction with the liquid wrench, and let it soak in a while. Then, get the torch out. Get that nut RED HOT. While the nut is still HOT, put the vice-grips on there TIGHT. Turn to loosen, and pray . If you're lucky, it'll come loose.

Assuming this got it loose, you MIGHT be able to re-use the hard line. Otherwise, it's new line time.

Install the new braided line, new brakes, etc.

When you retighten, get it tight with a regular flare wrench as much as you can. Try bleeding it out, and see if the joint is tight (i.e. NO leaks). If it leaks, try GENTLY tightening with the vice grips and re-test for leaks.

If it still leaks, you need a new hard line. If it doesn't leak, you got lucky....dang lucky

Needless to say, you really need to bleed out all the brake fluid afterwards....but you should be doing that anyways

EtchyLives

iTrader: (1)

When replacing my front calipers I did the same thing. Basically I did the above (without the heat source) and got REALLY lucky. It took some serious vice grips action along with the flare-nut wrench, but we got it done. Just for edification purposes, I was told replacing that line from the ABS system isn't too bad. It's the shortest of the metal tubes and comes in almost directly from the pump. It's supposed to be a real beotch, but not as bad as the others.

Good luck and hopefully you can get it done without replacing the whole brake line.
-Etch

bringndefinitio

iTrader: (6)

so did u just reused the stripped nut?? or did u just change the whole brake hard lines?

EtchyLives

iTrader: (1)

I reused the stripped nut. I put some teflon tape on the inside, vice-gripped the hell out of it, and tightened it on until no fluid leaked. 6k miles later and no issues. Did you get yours figured out?

When I change my brakes again (yes, again) I'm afraid it's going to take a bit more effort, but it should be a year+ until I do that swap. Need to get bigger wheels and tires, first.

scoobsport98

iTrader: (5)

Man, are those bolts a B*tch. I swapped out my springs/struts last weekend and figured I'd throw on ss lines at the same time. Ironically, the lines ended up taking most of the time. I have rear drums (98OBS), and they have TWO of those bastards on each side... double the pleasure, double the fun Well, after a wasted trip to the autoparts store for a 10mm line wrench, I found that even the tool designed for the job was loose-fitting and would strip the soft-metal bolt (what the hell are we supposed to use?). Needless to say, the vice grips were whipped out along with the liquid wrench (I used Zep and some stuff called "cutter" - for use on corroded power line hardware, 'borrowed' from a local power company truck )
Each bolt averaged about 30 minutes (don't give up!), but they were all defeated (and salvaged for re-use)... It was a definite beyotch, but well-worth it now that its over (better brake feel/response plus no ghetto cut-out flanges on the struts!!)

...so when are they gonna start makin that 9 1/2 mm line wrench?

sloeshaun

I need to find a new nut/ fitting...this situation just happened to me on fri when installing new ss lines. We finished 3 sides and on the last wheel the line broke just below the fitting since it was on so damn tight. I've been to several kragens and home depot pipe section but we can't find a suitable replacement fitting that wont leak fluid. Next step is to replace the line i guess...or is there a separate section that attaches to the left rear with a new nut/ fitting?? This seems to be the case from the schema on subie parts link. Would a dealer carry this so I dont have to wait for shipping...TIA

http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=265-1

Wingless Wonder

iTrader: (7)

A broken hard line cannot be repaired properly when it is on the vehicle. It must be replaced because even if you could cut off the damaged section and manage to put a double-flared compression flange (single-flare tool is cheaper but not dependable in brake applications) on the end of it, the factory bracket would be too short to reach to hold the hard line and flex hose in the proper position.

As for the schematic, I'd get under the car and follow the broken hard line until you see a compression fitting at the 'good' end. Take pics of the entire length and show the parts counter guy at Subaru. Less likely to result in confusion if he knows exactly what you need. You'd have to ask a specific dealer if it's a part they have in stock or the expected shipping time.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

sloeshaun

I agree I would much rather replace the entire hard line, however there is more than sufficient length at the wheel meet the bracket...that said if we can button this up with no leaks, I can drive a couple miles to ron price...god forbid...or carlsen in rwc. In any case I'd like to replace the entire line at the dealer...I wont be able to take a look under car until tomorrow morning, but does anyone with experience know if the hard line extends all the way to the front of the car (the rear left wheel is where this happened...figures that the first 3 would go smoothly!

se0ul

iTrader: (17)

im having the same exact stripped screw problem with one of my front lines... ;[

so what did you end up doing with yours bringndefinitio?