Go Back   i-Club > General Forums > Subaru General > Suby Shopping & Maintenance/Warranty
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Register Photos FAQ Members Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read ExperienceUsed CarsGarageVendors TSB & Recalls

Welcome to I-Club!
Welcome to I-Club,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-28-2004, 07:23 PM   #1
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (12)
 
Kevin M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Drives : 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Posts: 18,379
Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Level up: 0%, 0 to go!
Level up: 0% Level up: 0% Level up: 0%
Daily Activity: 0%
Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0%
Send a message via ICQ to Kevin M Send a message via AIM to Kevin M Send a message via MSN to Kevin M Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin M
What fluids to use in your Subaru

This post was a reply I made in the transmission forum, but since it covered most all fluids in the car I felt it was worth sticking here. Please post your additional comments and recommendations, but post a WHY with your WHAT. One-liners like "I use Marvel Mystery Oil in my gearbox" will be removed, as well as get you laughed at. Keep it on-topic and informative. This isn't a poll.


Here's my personal fluid recommendations. They aren't the only solution, others will post different choices, but there is no "one" right answer in this case.

Engine oil: 5w30 full synthetic in colder climates. I usually use Mobil 1, but any full synthetic will do. Other favorites are Redline, Neo, Motul, Royal Purple, etc.

Gearbox: Synchro care is critical. There is much debate about what is good for the gearbox. I recently had 75w90 Royal Purple added when I changed my clutch and flywheel, and I don't think it's good for our gearboxes. This is because it is too slick- the synchros can't grab and this helps cause grinding. I will be switching to 75w90NS Redline or Neo 75w90 RHD when I install my 6MT, as these have what are called "friction modifiers" which help the synchros to work faster. Others will say to simply use the factory fluid, but nobody seems to have a certain grasp on exactly what it is or where to get it. Most dealers simply use plain 75w90 dino gear oil for their changes. Yet another option (bet you thought you were just gonna get some real quick answers for you to run to the auto parts store with, huh? ) is to try a 'cocktail' of different oils, usually including dino oil or what is known as GM Synchromesh. Before you settle on what to get, do a lot of searching and reading and decide on what you want to do for your own reasons. Gear oil is a compromise- choose according to what you think is most important. Again, I will be going with a synthetic 75w90 with limited slip additive. Your RS has a limited slip rear diff, so use the same stuff you put in the gearbox.

Coolant: Use whatever you want, as long as you flush out the old stuff entirely. Rather than running a 50/50 mix, try going with about 65% water/ 35% coolant. The coolant is there to not freeze and not boil- water is the best heat exchanger. I also recommend using a product like Redline Water Wetter. The car will run cooler with no other mods.

Brake fluid: I use ATE SuperBlue Racing, but like engine oil, any full synthetic DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid from a name brand will do. Everyone has their favorite. Avoid DOT 5 fluids if you like to drive hard.

Clutch: Same as brake fluid. Shouldn't need to be changed, but bleeding it wouldn't hurt. Bleeding it, however, will require a refill so it might as well be flushed.

Boost fluid: Just kidding.

Cheers,
Kevin
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2004, 07:34 AM   #2
VIP Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)

 
meilers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Drives : Subaru Impreza WRX 2002
Posts: 2,019
Points: 12,638, Level: 73
Points: 12,638, Level: 73 Points: 12,638, Level: 73 Points: 12,638, Level: 73
Level up: 47%, 212 to go!
Level up: 47% Level up: 47% Level up: 47%
Daily Activity: 0%
Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0%
Thanks for the excellent post. However, I'd like to add the following:

Be VERY CAREFUL what engine coolant you use -- it must be completely safe for ALUMINUM ENGINES specifically. There are a few low-cost brands out there (Peak, for one) that contain silicates which can degrade an aluminum radiator and even cause engine block wear. Both my dealer and their lead shop mechanic said WRX models in particular should use the factory Subaru fluid (which they sell in gallong jugs as well) and nothing else, because of this danger. Normally I would be skeptical, but the mechanic pointed out that they could actually make more money selling a brand-name fluid to customers -- they would just rather take the loss and avoid replacing radiators under warranty

For the record, I run factory subaru coolant (which is premixed 50/50 with water) + 1 jug of distilled ionized water + 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2004, 09:09 AM   #3
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (12)
 
Kevin M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Drives : 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Posts: 18,379
Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Level up: 0%, 0 to go!
Level up: 0% Level up: 0% Level up: 0%
Daily Activity: 0%
Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0%
Send a message via ICQ to Kevin M Send a message via AIM to Kevin M Send a message via MSN to Kevin M Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin M
Good info meilers, thanks!
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 12:05 AM   #4
steedsta
Guest
Personal Sales Rating:
 
Posts: n/a
my friend put a little bit of that peak stuff in my overflow, do you think i shoud take it all out and flush it?
  Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 12:34 AM   #5
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (4)
 
dropkick_muppet's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: your friendly neighborhood hairpin
Drives : '03 PSM Sedan
Posts: 2,342
Send a message via AIM to dropkick_muppet
i prefer Motul RBF 600 for brake fluid. it's DOT4, so it doesn't requre the attention that the DOT5 silicon based fluids do. it has a higher boiling point (if i recall correctly) than the ATE super blue. i've always run RBF600 in my bikes and now in my car, i've got nothing but good things to say about it -- though brake fluid is toxic stuff.

i'm getting ready to change the gearbox oil, and i'm either going to go with Redline or Motul. both companies put out quality products, and as long as you get the correct weight, i doubt you'd be able to tell the differance between the two.

as for coolant, water, aluminum safe coolant and water wetter. some of the other water wetter type products work from what i've read/heard, but i've only personally used water wetter. it works for me, and i've got no complaints.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 10:59 AM   #6
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (12)
 
Kevin M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Drives : 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Posts: 18,379
Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Level up: 0%, 0 to go!
Level up: 0% Level up: 0% Level up: 0%
Daily Activity: 0%
Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0%
Send a message via ICQ to Kevin M Send a message via AIM to Kevin M Send a message via MSN to Kevin M Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin M
Quote:
Originally posted by steedsta
my friend put a little bit of that peak stuff in my overflow, do you think i shoud take it all out and flush it?
If it's the same color as what you had, it's fine. If it's a different color, than flush it, run on just water for a couple days (unless it will drop below freezing), then drain and refill it.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2004, 10:00 AM   #7
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 85
Thumbs up What I'm using

Cobb Tuning is recommending
Redline MT-90 for the transmission and
75W90NS for the rear diff.

Apparently the problem people are having is that what you choose for the transmission has to do two things. Have enough friction to protect your synchros AND be slippery enough to protect your bearings.

MT-90 is only a GL-4 but it should work best for protecting the synchros. I do so much stop and go driving that I'm more worried about that at the moment. If I end up doing a lot more long drives with little shifting I'll probably switch my transmission over to something slipperier like the Redline 75W90 (not NS)...
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2004, 10:32 PM   #8
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Coquitlam
Drives : 1985 Corolla AE82 FWD
Posts: 168
Quote:
Originally posted by meilers
Thanks for the excellent post. However, I'd like to add the following:

Be VERY CAREFUL what engine coolant you use -- it must be completely safe for ALUMINUM ENGINES specifically. There are a few low-cost brands out there (Peak, for one) that contain silicates which can degrade an aluminum radiator and even cause engine block wear. Both my dealer and their lead shop mechanic said WRX models in particular should use the factory Subaru fluid (which they sell in gallong jugs as well) and nothing else, because of this danger. Normally I would be skeptical, but the mechanic pointed out that they could actually make more money selling a brand-name fluid to customers -- they would just rather take the loss and avoid replacing radiators under warranty

For the record, I run factory subaru coolant (which is premixed 50/50 with water) + 1 jug of distilled ionized water + 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
Could this be the main cause of this headgasket problem that people keep talking about?
Subaru (from what I read on NASIOC) has placed out a safety bulletin for headgasket replacement and highly recommend the use of Subaru fluid only.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2004, 11:25 PM   #9
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (12)
 
Kevin M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Drives : 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Posts: 18,379
Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Level up: 0%, 0 to go!
Level up: 0% Level up: 0% Level up: 0%
Daily Activity: 0%
Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0%
Send a message via ICQ to Kevin M Send a message via AIM to Kevin M Send a message via MSN to Kevin M Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin M
Quote:
Originally posted by dugrant153
Could this be the main cause of this headgasket problem that people keep talking about?
Subaru (from what I read on NASIOC) has placed out a safety bulletin for headgasket replacement and highly recommend the use of Subaru fluid only.
That has to do with leaks eventually developing from thermal expansion/contraction.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2004, 09:26 AM   #10
mkgcars
Guest
Personal Sales Rating:
 
Posts: n/a
Coolant Conditioner Recall WWP-99

Just got an email relative to 1999-2002 2.5l enginers.
Recall WWP-99
To avoid potential external head gasket leaks they to add 'conditioner' to the coolant. This will be done free of charge. It must also be done after subsquent coolant changes.

Questions (and some of these are really better addressed in another forum):
- Will they keep doing it for free?
- What is the conditioner? (can we get it elsewhere, or avoid using it if we simply go to a different coolant/water ratio like 65-35 or 70-30)

-matt
  Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2004, 10:50 AM   #11
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (12)
 
Kevin M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Drives : 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Posts: 18,379
Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Level up: 0%, 0 to go!
Level up: 0% Level up: 0% Level up: 0%
Daily Activity: 0%
Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0%
Send a message via ICQ to Kevin M Send a message via AIM to Kevin M Send a message via MSN to Kevin M Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin M
If you have the dealership do your services, they will add it for free, but they won't give away the conditioner for free. It's inexpensive, however.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2004, 01:25 PM   #12
mkgcars
Guest
Personal Sales Rating:
 
Posts: n/a
Did some more searching on conditioner...

I did a search on WWP-99 and found the following info (includes pic of the conditioner):

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...&threadid=2993

Looks like the conditioner is a re-label or derivative of a product called Holts RADwell.
  Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2004, 06:07 PM   #13
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Wagons are cool :p
Drives : 2004 WRX Wagon
Posts: 10
Quote:
Originally posted by BAN SUVS
I will be switching to 75w90NS Redline or Neo 75w90 RHD when I install my 6MT, as these have what are called "friction modifiers" which help the synchros to work faster.
Wrong. Redline 75w90NS does NOT have a friction modifier additive.

Friction modifiers are additives that increase the "slipperyness" of the oil, and are reccomended for useage in limited-slip differential applications.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2004, 08:04 PM   #14
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (12)
 
Kevin M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Drives : 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Posts: 18,379
Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100 Points: 33,076, Level: 100
Level up: 0%, 0 to go!
Level up: 0% Level up: 0% Level up: 0%
Daily Activity: 0%
Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0% Daily Activity: 0%
Send a message via ICQ to Kevin M Send a message via AIM to Kevin M Send a message via MSN to Kevin M Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin M
Quote:
Originally posted by wall of tvs
Wrong. Redline 75w90NS does NOT have a friction modifier additive.

Friction modifiers are additives that increase the "slipperyness" of the oil, and are reccomended for useage in limited-slip differential applications.
Correct. I swear, NOTHING seems harder for me to learn and retain than the differences between gear oils. As you pointed out, friction modifiers are for clutch-type LSDs that are too aggressive and need to be smoothed out. Our LSDs do need the higher friction properties of 75w90NS if you were to go with Redline however.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2004, 10:31 PM   #15
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Wagons are cool :p
Drives : 2004 WRX Wagon
Posts: 10
Quote:
Originally posted by BAN SUVS
Correct. I swear, NOTHING seems harder for me to learn and retain than the differences between gear oils. As you pointed out, friction modifiers are for clutch-type LSDs that are too aggressive and need to be smoothed out. Our LSDs do need the higher friction properties of 75w90NS if you were to go with Redline however.
Yeah, I'm in the same boat as you, lol.

Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2004, 10:31 PM
I-Club
Subaru WRX




Paid Advertisement
 
 
 
Reply

Tags
add, brake, buy, conditioner, coolant, fluid, fluids, flush, nasioc, purchase, radiator, recommended, subaru, synthetic, type, wrx


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


 




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:49 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.

-= NOT AUTHORIZED OR APPROVED BY OR AFFILIATED WITH SUBARU OF AMERICA OR FUJI HEAVY INDUSTRIES LTD. =-