Bay Area Photographers
#316
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Last edited by glider; 02-19-2008 at 10:25 PM. Reason: 3 pictures was slowing the thread load time too much
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#321
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Photo1 classes are a great thing to take for everyone
the first exerise we did in the Photo1 class I took years ago was to pick a subject and take a picture of it, then move up closer and take another picture, and then move up again and take a 3rd picture
Last edited by VRT MBasile; 02-19-2008 at 10:20 PM.
#326
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fill flash is using the flash in a situation where there is light such as background light and you use your camera settings measuring light without use of flash. what that means is you take measure of light and then use the flash at a slow sync which means the flash will just adjust accordingly that is of course if you're using a true TTL flash that is made for your camera.
i never use the flash on the camera because it is quite useless. i use external lights all the time.
if you have more questions, let me know. hope this helps.
#328
okay, you lost me starting from 2.
2. how do I measure light using my camera (I have a Nikon D50)
3. what is slow sync? (i only understand the slow part)
4. huh?
5. huh? (I am a computer engineer, TTL means Transistor-Transistor Logic to me )
1. fill flash is using the flash in a situation where there is light such as background light and
2. you use your camera settings measuring light without use of flash.
3. what that means is you take measure of light and then use the flash at a slow sync
4. which means the flash will just adjust accordingly
5. that is of course if you're using a true TTL flash that is made for your camera.
2. you use your camera settings measuring light without use of flash.
3. what that means is you take measure of light and then use the flash at a slow sync
4. which means the flash will just adjust accordingly
5. that is of course if you're using a true TTL flash that is made for your camera.
3. what is slow sync? (i only understand the slow part)
4. huh?
5. huh? (I am a computer engineer, TTL means Transistor-Transistor Logic to me )
#330
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Fill-In Flash
If you have pictures where the foreground is too dark while the background seems to be correctly exposed, then using fill-in flash may be a technique worth learning about. Using fill-in flash, as the name implies, is to use flash to fill-in light where it is deficient. This is usually the situation when you are in the shadows and shooting through objects in the foreground that are acting as a frame.
In the photo above, I was standing in a shaded spot and using the foliage as a frame. Without fill-in flash to illuminate the foreground, the latter would be quite dark. Shutter speed: 1/180 sec., Aperture: F2.8, ISO 50 with fill-in flash. (Exposure compensation was -0.7EV but that was because I forgot to reset it for a previous picture.)
Instead of the leaves, imagine a person stood in the foreground. Unless you wanted to silhouette the person (this can be quite effective in producing a dramatic picture), fill-in flash would throw in just enough light to illuminate the face.
A most pleasant effect can sometimes be achieved by photographing a person against the sun (or another strong light source). The light behind his or her head creates a halo around the edge of the hair. The face would be quite underexposed but for fill-in flash. Shooting against the sun also avoids your subject squinting in the sun.
To use fill-in flash, set your digital camera so that it is forced to fire the flash. Do not confuse with Night Shot scene mode which is similar but generally used at nightime for night portraits. In this case the flash fires to illuminate the foreground, while the shutter remains open a while longer to expose the background. You need to keep the camera steady until after the flash has fired and the shutter has closed.
If you have pictures where the foreground is too dark while the background seems to be correctly exposed, then using fill-in flash may be a technique worth learning about. Using fill-in flash, as the name implies, is to use flash to fill-in light where it is deficient. This is usually the situation when you are in the shadows and shooting through objects in the foreground that are acting as a frame.
In the photo above, I was standing in a shaded spot and using the foliage as a frame. Without fill-in flash to illuminate the foreground, the latter would be quite dark. Shutter speed: 1/180 sec., Aperture: F2.8, ISO 50 with fill-in flash. (Exposure compensation was -0.7EV but that was because I forgot to reset it for a previous picture.)
Instead of the leaves, imagine a person stood in the foreground. Unless you wanted to silhouette the person (this can be quite effective in producing a dramatic picture), fill-in flash would throw in just enough light to illuminate the face.
A most pleasant effect can sometimes be achieved by photographing a person against the sun (or another strong light source). The light behind his or her head creates a halo around the edge of the hair. The face would be quite underexposed but for fill-in flash. Shooting against the sun also avoids your subject squinting in the sun.
To use fill-in flash, set your digital camera so that it is forced to fire the flash. Do not confuse with Night Shot scene mode which is similar but generally used at nightime for night portraits. In this case the flash fires to illuminate the foreground, while the shutter remains open a while longer to expose the background. You need to keep the camera steady until after the flash has fired and the shutter has closed.
Some images on that webpage to help the explanation
Last edited by Superglue WRX; 02-20-2008 at 12:40 AM. Reason: Chose a low light explaination when I should have stuck to the fill flash subject