Homemade HL harness
01-10-2003, 10:49 PM
#1
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Homemade HL harness
Took me a little time but I finally built my own harness (Jim Hoyd is sold out) for my EDM STI Headlights. Anyone else have any luck making their own harness?
As you can see below, I managed to fit 9007, 9005, and H1 connectors onto the harness. I didn't want to deal with cutting into my OE harness or using vampire/quick connects. Just need to solder and epoxy a few spots and I'm done. What do you guys think?
As you can see below, I managed to fit 9007, 9005, and H1 connectors onto the harness. I didn't want to deal with cutting into my OE harness or using vampire/quick connects. Just need to solder and epoxy a few spots and I'm done. What do you guys think?
01-11-2003, 07:10 PM
#3
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If you mean Packard Weather Pack connectors, then no. I actually sourced everything from Autozone.
1 - Wagner 9007 bulb (9007 connector)
1 - Bosch Fuel Injection repair socket (H1 connector)
1 - 9005 headlight repair socket (9005 connector)
1 - wire conduit
total cost about $20/side
I made the 9007 connector from a Wagner 9007 bulb. I chose Wagner because it was the cheapest and isn't well assembled (read: easier to rip apart). The 9005 connector is stock and comes with 18AWG wires. The H1 connector was fabricated from a Bosch Fuel Injection repair socket (also comes with 18 AWG wires). I used a Dremel to shave the connector down into the proper size (doesn't take much as it's already pretty close). All pieces have gaskets and fit tightly into the stock STI projector sockets for a weather tight fit. Took me a few hours to do and only requires a little skill (epoxy, soldering, and Dremel). Not that difficult and I don't have to cut anything or worry about corrosion/loose connectors. If get some time, I'll post some more details and a wiring diagram.
1 - Wagner 9007 bulb (9007 connector)
1 - Bosch Fuel Injection repair socket (H1 connector)
1 - 9005 headlight repair socket (9005 connector)
1 - wire conduit
total cost about $20/side
I made the 9007 connector from a Wagner 9007 bulb. I chose Wagner because it was the cheapest and isn't well assembled (read: easier to rip apart). The 9005 connector is stock and comes with 18AWG wires. The H1 connector was fabricated from a Bosch Fuel Injection repair socket (also comes with 18 AWG wires). I used a Dremel to shave the connector down into the proper size (doesn't take much as it's already pretty close). All pieces have gaskets and fit tightly into the stock STI projector sockets for a weather tight fit. Took me a few hours to do and only requires a little skill (epoxy, soldering, and Dremel). Not that difficult and I don't have to cut anything or worry about corrosion/loose connectors. If get some time, I'll post some more details and a wiring diagram.
01-11-2003, 08:57 PM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Albany, New York
Posts: 31
Fantastic diagram. What did you do about the city light and the directional? I would like to use the city light as my DRL. (The city light is the little clear bulb in the uppper outside corner of the low beam.)
01-11-2003, 09:08 PM
#9
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Originally posted by Karaya Eins
Fantastic diagram. What did you do about the city light and the directional? I would like to use the city light as my DRL. (The city light is the little clear bulb in the uppper outside corner of the low beam.)
Fantastic diagram. What did you do about the city light and the directional? I would like to use the city light as my DRL. (The city light is the little clear bulb in the uppper outside corner of the low beam.)
01-19-2003, 07:00 PM
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,646
Car Info: 02 WRX WRB
The "thing" in the engine compartment is a resistor. When the DRLs are activated (by the control module by the glovebox) the low beams are connected to ground through this resistor (rather then directly, as in normal headlight operation) so they operate in DRL mode, at reduced brightness.
01-19-2003, 07:05 PM
#12
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Originally posted by Mulder
The "thing" in the engine compartment is a resistor. When the DRLs are activated (by the control module by the glovebox) the low beams are connected to ground through this resistor (rather then directly, as in normal headlight operation) so they operate in DRL mode, at reduced brightness.
The "thing" in the engine compartment is a resistor. When the DRLs are activated (by the control module by the glovebox) the low beams are connected to ground through this resistor (rather then directly, as in normal headlight operation) so they operate in DRL mode, at reduced brightness.
02-04-2003, 02:09 PM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: earth
Posts: 127
Car Info: 22
quick question, sorry i'm just being lazy, What direction are you looking at the 9007 connector in the diagrams(ie round side up or flat side up). I just want to be sure i put the high beams and low beams in the right place. Thanks-James
02-05-2003, 12:56 PM
#15
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Kilyung. This thread is great, I may end up just making my own if the import-store.com never gets back to me on which Nokya harness is for the JDM projectors.
Where did you get EDM Projectors? I've been looking for a while with no luck, so I gave up and just got the JDM's.
thanks
Where did you get EDM Projectors? I've been looking for a while with no luck, so I gave up and just got the JDM's.
thanks