How to Install Rear Lateral Links
10-08-2007, 11:37 AM
#1
Chicks dig me. April Fool's!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 10,989
Car Info: 1997 Impreza, 2014 BRZ
How to Install Rear Lateral Links
Hi all.
Going to do a how-to very soon on how to install rear lateral links.
Guide coming soon!!
Update: I haven't really done much yet. I climbed under the car to see what would be needed to be done in order to prepare to pull the rear lateral links. It seems that I am missing a few things. I think a second breaker bar would be helpful. I also don't have a correct size socket for one of the bolts. I think I'll be postponing this until Sunday. I did take off the rear sway bar though. A little less work now.
Anyone want to help me install them?
Going to do a how-to very soon on how to install rear lateral links.
Guide coming soon!!
Update: I haven't really done much yet. I climbed under the car to see what would be needed to be done in order to prepare to pull the rear lateral links. It seems that I am missing a few things. I think a second breaker bar would be helpful. I also don't have a correct size socket for one of the bolts. I think I'll be postponing this until Sunday. I did take off the rear sway bar though. A little less work now.
Anyone want to help me install them?
Last edited by darkonion; 10-09-2007 at 08:48 PM.
10-13-2007, 08:25 PM
#2
Chicks dig me. April Fool's!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 10,989
Car Info: 1997 Impreza, 2014 BRZ
So... I am kind of running into some trouble. When I attacked the long-a** bolt on the hub side of the lateral links, I get a popping sound. I know that the bolts should be torqued to 150ft-lbs or something like that. I don't know if the popping is normal or not. Anyways... it is dark, and I'll try to attack it tomorrow.
11-12-2007, 11:17 PM
#3
Chicks dig me. April Fool's!
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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Car Info: 1997 Impreza, 2014 BRZ
Finally attempted and finished the project. We took a few picture and I'll be writing a guide with the help of Eddie and Sam hopefully over the next few days.
11-13-2007, 04:30 PM
#4
Chicks dig me. April Fool's!
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fremont, CA
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Car Info: 1997 Impreza, 2014 BRZ
Install Guide for Rear Adjustable Lateral Links: Status: In Progress
Tools you'll need:
Breaker Bar (preferably two)
Torque Wrench
19mm socket (x2 if possible), 19mm closed wrench
22mm socket, 22mm wrench
Big adjustable wrench thingy
Lug key(s)
Jack and jack stands (if you have access to a lift, that makes it easier)
Airtools (if possible, really helpful)
and PB Blaster. It is your friend!!
and two friends. One that brings the beers, the other one that brings the Philly cheesesteaks.
1. Remove your rear wheels. Pretty explanatory. Loosen the lugs, jack up the car, take off the wheels. Also remove the RSB. You don't have to remove it completely. You can just disconnect the endlink portion from the stock lateral links.
2. PB Blaster all the bolts that you are going to be removing. There should be 3 pairs of bolts and nuts on the left and 3 on the right. Trust me... the PB Blaster helps, and be GENEROUS about it. Let it soak in a bit, and then continue. We were working on my 10 year old L and those things were on there pretty good.
You should have sprayed the long bolt on the hub, and the sets of bolts on the subframe.
3. While you are at it, might as well PB Blaster the adjustable portion of the lateral links. Might not be an issue if you got them new, but since mine are new, they needed a little work.
4. Remove the long bolts. You'll need to use a breaker bar for this. If you have a cheater bar or something, that'll help. They should be torqued down to about 150 ft-lbs. I think the best idea is to put a breaker bar and a friend on one side, and you and the cheater bar on the other. You might here a few pops, but after two or three, it should come off pretty easy. Of course you have the option to use air tools. Substitute as necessary. Once that bolt is out, the hub side of the two lateral links should come be free. Keep track of which bolts go where.
5. Now attack the two bolts on the subframe. The rear bolt, the eccentric one is 22mm on one side and something smaller on the other. If you are using jack stands, this might become a little trouble-some. They should only be torqued to less than 100 ft-lbs, but ours didn't feel like it. We finally attack that with air tools and it finally came off.
6. The front bolt is a 19mm or something. It is two sided. There is a rubber cover/cup thing cover one of the bolts. I think you can twist the cup and it'll come off. We didn't know that at the time, so we ended up using a flathead screw driver to pry it off. Attack these like you did with step #5.
7. Once you got the stock lateral links off, you'll need to adjust the aftermarket adjustable ones to the same size as the stock ones. This is where it helps to have some friends over to help you. We had two guys holding down the lateral links, while the other guy was loosening the locking nut. Like I said, you might not encounter any of these problems if you got new ones. Adjust them as needed.
8. Installing them isn't too bad. Just go backwards. We installed the subframe side first, then the hub side. Pretty straight forward. Make sure to keep track which bolts go where and which directions they go. The subframe side is torqued to something like 100 ft-lbs. The long bolt was torqued to 150 ft-lbs.
9. Reattach your RSB/Endlinks, put on your wheels, and you are ready to go.
Tools you'll need:
Breaker Bar (preferably two)
Torque Wrench
19mm socket (x2 if possible), 19mm closed wrench
22mm socket, 22mm wrench
Big adjustable wrench thingy
Lug key(s)
Jack and jack stands (if you have access to a lift, that makes it easier)
Airtools (if possible, really helpful)
and PB Blaster. It is your friend!!
and two friends. One that brings the beers, the other one that brings the Philly cheesesteaks.
1. Remove your rear wheels. Pretty explanatory. Loosen the lugs, jack up the car, take off the wheels. Also remove the RSB. You don't have to remove it completely. You can just disconnect the endlink portion from the stock lateral links.
2. PB Blaster all the bolts that you are going to be removing. There should be 3 pairs of bolts and nuts on the left and 3 on the right. Trust me... the PB Blaster helps, and be GENEROUS about it. Let it soak in a bit, and then continue. We were working on my 10 year old L and those things were on there pretty good.
You should have sprayed the long bolt on the hub, and the sets of bolts on the subframe.
3. While you are at it, might as well PB Blaster the adjustable portion of the lateral links. Might not be an issue if you got them new, but since mine are new, they needed a little work.
4. Remove the long bolts. You'll need to use a breaker bar for this. If you have a cheater bar or something, that'll help. They should be torqued down to about 150 ft-lbs. I think the best idea is to put a breaker bar and a friend on one side, and you and the cheater bar on the other. You might here a few pops, but after two or three, it should come off pretty easy. Of course you have the option to use air tools. Substitute as necessary. Once that bolt is out, the hub side of the two lateral links should come be free. Keep track of which bolts go where.
5. Now attack the two bolts on the subframe. The rear bolt, the eccentric one is 22mm on one side and something smaller on the other. If you are using jack stands, this might become a little trouble-some. They should only be torqued to less than 100 ft-lbs, but ours didn't feel like it. We finally attack that with air tools and it finally came off.
6. The front bolt is a 19mm or something. It is two sided. There is a rubber cover/cup thing cover one of the bolts. I think you can twist the cup and it'll come off. We didn't know that at the time, so we ended up using a flathead screw driver to pry it off. Attack these like you did with step #5.
7. Once you got the stock lateral links off, you'll need to adjust the aftermarket adjustable ones to the same size as the stock ones. This is where it helps to have some friends over to help you. We had two guys holding down the lateral links, while the other guy was loosening the locking nut. Like I said, you might not encounter any of these problems if you got new ones. Adjust them as needed.
8. Installing them isn't too bad. Just go backwards. We installed the subframe side first, then the hub side. Pretty straight forward. Make sure to keep track which bolts go where and which directions they go. The subframe side is torqued to something like 100 ft-lbs. The long bolt was torqued to 150 ft-lbs.
9. Reattach your RSB/Endlinks, put on your wheels, and you are ready to go.
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