02RS25

iTrader: (9)

budget really. I dont want to put $$$ in the RS. ill be doing that for the STI although i did some more looking around and $60 more for full Group-N why the hell not. and the fact that they are designed by STi. even better.

update:

still no luck with case bolts in water jacket

Harry Maneuvers

iTrader: (2)

Hmm... Is it because they are corroded or because they are in there really good?

What have you tried so far on the bolts?

I used my 1/2 HF breaker bar (the big one) and had no problem at all. But that was on a motor with only 114k on it. I am sure they would break loose if you had something similar with a cheater bar over it.

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

YOOOOOUUUU again....hahah JK i do appreciate all the help!

I tried taking a 1/2 breaker bar and extention with 12pt at the end. the extension stapped at the socket. i also took a couple quick light taps with the air compressor but didint want to do much more with the risk of damaging the aluminum case.

Oh, and I have 260,000 miles on the block....

Harry Maneuvers

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like all you need is a stronger extension. I wouldnt be trying too much with the air tools either.

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

ya. took it to the machine shop that i dropped my heads and flywheel at. they couldnt get them to move either.....WTF do I do? im seriously on the verge of tossing this block....if a 17" 1/2 breaker bar dont do it....

Harry Maneuvers

iTrader: (2)

Nothing else you can do besides get a stronger extension and put a huge cheater bar on it. 17" breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater pipe should do the trick.

I will buy the block off of you if you decide to toss it.

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

im going to try and and find a 1/2 drive 12pt 12mm socket that can fit down there. after that and a long *** bar i should be able to break them free. I also gave the bolts some shock (placed an extension about 1/4-1/2 inch away from bolt head and gave a couple light taps on the extension with a small rubber mallet. hopefully that breaks any seal on the threads and makes it a little easier. THe only 12pt 12mm socket i can fit down there is the smaller drive

Rebuild Update:

Finally was able to remove oil separator plate and remove the last two pistons. I noticed some scuffing in the #1 cyclinder wall where piston skirt would ride. Ill know more when i have the block split and bearings in hand.

Posting pics tonight

04GG

iTrader: (33)

Dead blow mallet is like $2 at Harbor Freight. You should have one. Or two.

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

yep. i got a big and small one. what i need is a 10foot breaker bar. LOL. the only drive i can get down ther was 3/8 and i snapped that extension

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

update: broke the outer 12pt 12mm case bolts free. I cant ffind a 1/2 drive thin enough to fit in my jackets and a 3/8 will just snap again with a longer breaker bar.....ideas?

Harry Maneuvers

iTrader: (2)

Still stuck?

Use a 3/8 extension that is for an impact wrench.... one designed to handle huge torque.

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

Nope. Split block on saturday : banana : ill ppst some pics and an update within thw hour

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

FINALLY split the block this past Saturday. spent about 20mins each bolt shocking them every angle i could. used a 25" 1/2 drive breaker bar to adapter to 3/8 extension to 3/8 12mm 12pt. They creaked and gave way!

take a look at the pics! valve stem leak shows bearing damage. taht with the combination of bearings with 255,000 miles on them!




^Heads back from sshop





^made myself a little engine assembly station not perfect but the amount of crap the tree above donates....no good.



^Bolt mapping

SPLIT!

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

^Mains and rear oil seal



^#1 Rod bearing!



^MB1-RB3

^RB2-MB5

^bearing material transfer on MB 5

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

Any one bump up HG thickness when they ref surface head and block for the first time?