SubieSTI209

Well Like a Dummy I went over my scheduled maintenance on my timing belt, I have a 05 STI 115K on my motor...due to financial issues I couldn't afford the parts I needed to change my timing belt, well one night I was driving home I felt my motor jerk then shut off I tried cranking the motor but would not start so I towed the car home, took the timing cover off and notice the the belt had a small rip the car did jump timing. Anyways I was wondering if I might have bent valves, I was driving at a very low rpm maybe 2500 tops at 30mph.. I order the parts last night and had them shipped over night and plan on installing Friday. I know I should of changed it sooner but I just spent almost 3 grand rebuilding my transmission. so please any information helps thank you..

strider327

iTrader: (10)

Regardless of how slow you were going. Once the timing belt snaps like that in motion, almost 99% of time the valves are bent. Jumping timing is like an exploding bomb without delay.

SubieSTI209

well that sucks I knew it was a long shot but I was hoping for a miracle since the timing belt didn't snap.. guess I have to save money for new valves, gaskets, etc..

xhengmanx

iTrader: (57)

Only thing I can suggest is that install the new belt and tension. Set timing properly then perform a compression and leak down test at the same time. This will almost tell you immediately if you have an issue

SUMBARU

iTrader: (11)

Yup, that's only real way. If you have hard hesitation during timing reset that's also a sign of bent valves.

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

Most likely SOL

04GG

iTrader: (33)

I had the t-belt go on an Integra and it resulted in no serious damage. I was (fortunately) sitting at a light at the time though... Sounds like you were moving at the time, so the probability of damage is a lot higher.

SubieSTI209

well like Heedz said I'm SOL, I have bent valves so time to pull the engine and rebuild at least I don't have to worry about when or if I will have head gasket failure..

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

good choice to rebuild. When I got into my accident with my legacy I wanted to buy it back for a swap since it was only $1200 but when I saw the timing belt cover cracked and the belt off..... I ditched that idea.

SubieSTI209

Well I want to rebuild I love my STI to much to ditch it, plus I invested too much already.. I just repainted it a year ago, transmission etc.. Well I'm in the process of pulling the Engine I've made a parts list so far..
Head Gaskets X2 $42.00
Valve Cover Gasket Kit $60.00
Intake Gasket $11.20
Brian Crower Valves Intake $147.00 and Exhaust $147.00
Cam Seals X4 28.00
Valve Stem Seals 16 $84.00
Exhaust Gasket X2 10.56 Up pipe to Turbo Gasket $14.00

Sorry about the long list and poor grammer if I'm missing anything else please feel free to list anything else..

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

not all cars are interference engines. some have systems specifically designed to prevent piston/valve clash in situations like these

im sure u already know or have heard it. but its lessons like these that i myself for sure say: "damn, i should have spend that $X instead of the now $XXX

we all have our learning lessons. just sucks it happened to u. GL!

SubieSTI209

Well I'm going to start my motor build soon, And I'm going with ACL Race Bearings for my Mains and Rods but I don't know If I should use standard or 0.25 I don't know what the +1 is so if someone can explain it to me please?? thanks

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

You buy bearings, rings, pistons after case is split. this way you know what bearings youll need. you may not even need to change size bearings. just a polish on crankshaft, STD bearings, and double check of oil clearance with plastigauge should be good. BUUUT your crank journals (main and rods) can be damaged (scratch, knick, heat transfer) at which point youll need to machine crank and order appropriate size bearings. same goes for piston rings. your cyl walls could be toast, or the honing hatch marks could still be t here. you just dont know until you really look at insides. i hope that was somewhat helpful. the info i provided is for general engine machining. with forged parts or aftermarket, there may be some things im missing. but thats about it for the most part. split case, inspect condition or crank, bearings, cyl walls, pistons, and THEN start looking at bearings.

SubieSTI209

Thanks for the info that did help a lot. I Decided to just do with a full rebuild since I have the engine out and semi taken apart. And with the mileage on my block, I don't want to go with a stock rebuild. Only down side is that I never build a Subaru engine meaning I never split the block, Etc.. I do know about the crank and machining process. I was going to try this on my own but when it comes with the internals of a EJ motor I scratch my head so I decided to ask my dads friend since he owns a machine shop, He's going to help me build the motor so I can get some experience building these EJ motors...

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

Niiice! Not a bad idea! Ya, despite subaru engine being just like any other 4stroke, there some minor differences that will make u wanna toss a wrench... I.e, on inline and Vs, you gotta split bottom end and caps before removing piston. Subaru, u HAVE to remove piston before splitting block. What got me the most that ill save u trouble with. Main and rod bearing oil clearances! NORMALY, FSMs provide oil clearancesc given in a total amount (both sides of crank added together) subaru gives u clearances for one side. This is because we have flat fours where oil is coming in from BOTH side of bearings as opposed to just one side on inline and V type. Subaru engines are really quite easy with ebough practice. Ive never rebuilt subaru before this feb. Since then ive built 5. Lol. Goodluck with proj! And I suggest upgrading yo allen head oil separator bolts!