car wont go pass 9psi...
06-13-2013, 09:47 PM
#1
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Car Info: 2005 sti
car wont go pass 9psi...
So I disconnected my battery due to my alarm. And when I reconnected and took it out for a drive. I noticed its not going pass 9 psi. Anyone encounter this problem and know how to fix it? I'm on open source tune BTW.
Thanks.
Thanks.
06-14-2013, 04:05 PM
#4
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Car Info: 02 WRX sedan
Check the following two things:
1) plumb directly from compressor nipple to wastegate actuator nipple.
If this feels just like it does now, then your boost control system isn't working. There's a hose off somewhere or the boost solenoid is broken... something with the boost control.
2) Pull the nipple off the wastegate actuator. At this point you have no boost control at all, so be very cautious and just do this one test, pull over and put it back on:
bring the car slowly up to ~3500 RPM, slam the gas, THEN PULL YOUR FOOT OFF AS SOON AS YOU PASS 13-15 PSI.
Now pull over and put the hose back on immediately.
That test should have you building boost extremely quickly. It should shoot up to 12+ psi in half a second or so. If not, then you have a leak or restriction or physical wastegate function problem... something mechanical and not something with the boost control system.
The important part of these two tests is that it completely segments mechanical problems from boost control problems. Whatever your actual problem ends up being, these two simple tests will eliminate a huge number of potential problems in about 10 minutes. And it's pretty easy to do these tests too, you don't need to be very mechanically inclined or know much about the function of boost and boost control to do this.
1) plumb directly from compressor nipple to wastegate actuator nipple.
If this feels just like it does now, then your boost control system isn't working. There's a hose off somewhere or the boost solenoid is broken... something with the boost control.
2) Pull the nipple off the wastegate actuator. At this point you have no boost control at all, so be very cautious and just do this one test, pull over and put it back on:
bring the car slowly up to ~3500 RPM, slam the gas, THEN PULL YOUR FOOT OFF AS SOON AS YOU PASS 13-15 PSI.
Now pull over and put the hose back on immediately.
That test should have you building boost extremely quickly. It should shoot up to 12+ psi in half a second or so. If not, then you have a leak or restriction or physical wastegate function problem... something mechanical and not something with the boost control system.
The important part of these two tests is that it completely segments mechanical problems from boost control problems. Whatever your actual problem ends up being, these two simple tests will eliminate a huge number of potential problems in about 10 minutes. And it's pretty easy to do these tests too, you don't need to be very mechanically inclined or know much about the function of boost and boost control to do this.
Last edited by Concillian; 06-14-2013 at 04:08 PM.
06-15-2013, 02:09 PM
#6
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OS tunes don't get wiped when you disconnect the battery.
OS tunes are done in exactly the same way that a Cobb AP tune is... it's written to the flash memory in the ECU through the exact same protocols.
Cobb and open source tuning are functionally equivalent. They have some differences in the features offered, but the fundamental way in which they work is equivalent.
06-16-2013, 01:38 AM
#7
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Check the following two things:
1) plumb directly from compressor nipple to wastegate actuator nipple.
If this feels just like it does now, then your boost control system isn't working. There's a hose off somewhere or the boost solenoid is broken... something with the boost control.
2) Pull the nipple off the wastegate actuator. At this point you have no boost control at all, so be very cautious and just do this one test, pull over and put it back on:
bring the car slowly up to ~3500 RPM, slam the gas, THEN PULL YOUR FOOT OFF AS SOON AS YOU PASS 13-15 PSI.
Now pull over and put the hose back on immediately.
That test should have you building boost extremely quickly. It should shoot up to 12+ psi in half a second or so. If not, then you have a leak or restriction or physical wastegate function problem... something mechanical and not something with the boost control system.
The important part of these two tests is that it completely segments mechanical problems from boost control problems. Whatever your actual problem ends up being, these two simple tests will eliminate a huge number of potential problems in about 10 minutes. And it's pretty easy to do these tests too, you don't need to be very mechanically inclined or know much about the function of boost and boost control to do this.
1) plumb directly from compressor nipple to wastegate actuator nipple.
If this feels just like it does now, then your boost control system isn't working. There's a hose off somewhere or the boost solenoid is broken... something with the boost control.
2) Pull the nipple off the wastegate actuator. At this point you have no boost control at all, so be very cautious and just do this one test, pull over and put it back on:
bring the car slowly up to ~3500 RPM, slam the gas, THEN PULL YOUR FOOT OFF AS SOON AS YOU PASS 13-15 PSI.
Now pull over and put the hose back on immediately.
That test should have you building boost extremely quickly. It should shoot up to 12+ psi in half a second or so. If not, then you have a leak or restriction or physical wastegate function problem... something mechanical and not something with the boost control system.
The important part of these two tests is that it completely segments mechanical problems from boost control problems. Whatever your actual problem ends up being, these two simple tests will eliminate a huge number of potential problems in about 10 minutes. And it's pretty easy to do these tests too, you don't need to be very mechanically inclined or know much about the function of boost and boost control to do this.
Check all your connections (including the electrical connector) and if you have any way of logging, make sure your wastegate duty values are correct.
06-16-2013, 01:20 PM
#8
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OK. I did check the connections to the turbo and to ebcs. Everything seems fine. The car was working fine before I disconnected the battery. Now it doesn't even feel the same. Weird. Maybe I have to reflash my map? I will try those two test after I reflash it. I'm also thinking my boost controller could be fried. Idk ...its a possibility right? I also checked the waste gate duty cycle and it looks fine. Nothing change....
06-17-2013, 02:02 PM
#11
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Car Info: 02 WRX sedan
Run the two tests I laid out in post #4 to determine if it is a boost control system issue or a mechanical issue.
If resetting the ECU doesn't help, then re-flashing the map won't help either.
If resetting the ECU doesn't help, then re-flashing the map won't help either.
