The cold air intake debate
06-10-2006, 12:13 PM
#212
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Originally Posted by Homicide_WRX
Can someone tell me where I can order the "Snorkus" removal kit or replacement?
You can buy a plug for the hole where the snorkel went into the fender @ www.AllSubaru.com
If you mean 'delete' the baffle box in the inner fender you just pull the inner fender... release the single bolt from the engine bay holding it in. Buy a 'U' from GP Moto ( www.ipd.com ) reconnect the snorkle to the 'U' and your rolling. reset your ECM... that with a drop in and you are golden and will cost you a whopping $50 and net you the same gains as a $250 CAI.
06-10-2006, 12:15 PM
#213
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Originally Posted by wrXmon
I just bought a 2004 WRX Wagon, and I've spent the last two weeks reading as much as possible about modifications and I have come to one conclusion on air intakes... Drop-in filter! I will also add the GP Moto elbow, because this makes more sense to me than spending $300 for a similar setup with engine heat as an added bonus. I plan on using the OE cold air intake, minus the 'snorkus' of course.
Remember to pull the baffle in the passenger front inner fender! And you are right... your ready to rock. Or you can just run a 3" ABS straight piece right out the back of the airbox (as I have) and grab cold air from the inner fender!
06-10-2006, 12:22 PM
#214
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Originally Posted by ezombie
[B]F*** it going back to stock air box an K&N drop in......then I have no need to worry!
^^^^^ Anyone here that doesn't do the same is stubborn, unable to read or just plain dumb. Sell tour air intakes and go get drunk on the proceeds!!!
On other point: K & N is one of the lowest flowing, least filtering filters in the drop in market... plus using ANY brand of 'oiled' filter can foul our MAF sensors ~ causing engine to lean out too much (pinging ~ detonation) under light load and light throttle situations. If you are yanking your K&N (highly recommended) be sure to pull your sensor and clean with electrical contact cleaner and reset the ECM.
* There was an independent study done (over a period of two years) on drop in filter flows and filtering ability and K&N was on the bottom of the list on every single test...
06-11-2006, 11:28 PM
#215
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Originally Posted by NW OBS
^^^^^ Anyone here that doesn't do the same is stubborn, unable to read or just plain dumb. Sell tour air intakes and go get drunk on the proceeds!!!
On other point: K & N is one of the lowest flowing, least filtering filters in the drop in market... plus using ANY brand of 'oiled' filter can foul our MAF sensors ~ causing engine to lean out too much (pinging ~ detonation) under light load and light throttle situations. If you are yanking your K&N (highly recommended) be sure to pull your sensor and clean with electrical contact cleaner and reset the ECM.
* There was an independent study done (over a period of two years) on drop in filter flows and filtering ability and K&N was on the bottom of the list on every single test...
On other point: K & N is one of the lowest flowing, least filtering filters in the drop in market... plus using ANY brand of 'oiled' filter can foul our MAF sensors ~ causing engine to lean out too much (pinging ~ detonation) under light load and light throttle situations. If you are yanking your K&N (highly recommended) be sure to pull your sensor and clean with electrical contact cleaner and reset the ECM.
* There was an independent study done (over a period of two years) on drop in filter flows and filtering ability and K&N was on the bottom of the list on every single test...
What is a good suggestion for a better drop in than the k&n just curious??
06-12-2006, 03:22 PM
#216
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Originally Posted by ezombie
What is a good suggestion for a better drop in than the k&n just curious??
So, I bought a Green drop in air filter ($57) and a HKS cell foam drop in ($29)... I have a stock STI paper (from a friend) and the K&N is in my car right now.
Both Green and K&N use oil soaked cotton (so both have MAF issues ~ but as I said the MAF can be cleaned very simply). Hoping perhaps the Green flows better?
Then the HKS has the potential to flow the best and it's cheap enough (less then even the OEM paper for the Impreza) to throw out and drop a new one in when it gets dirty... then you have no oil/MAF sensor issues at all.
I know the K&N is coming out for sure... the test results for K&N were just too dismal (a Fram paper was WAY ahead of it in flow AND filtration!). After I run all four, I will see if subjectivly I find a winner!
With no filter testing facilities, not much else you can do. None of them will make enough difference to show on a dyno anyway...
Last edited by NW OBS; 06-12-2006 at 03:26 PM.
06-15-2006, 04:28 AM
#217
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Originally Posted by NW OBS
^^^^^ Anyone here that doesn't do the same is stubborn, unable to read or just plain dumb. Sell tour air intakes and go get drunk on the proceeds!!!
On other point: K & N is one of the lowest flowing, least filtering filters in the drop in market... plus using ANY brand of 'oiled' filter can foul our MAF sensors ~ causing engine to lean out too much (pinging ~ detonation) under light load and light throttle situations. If you are yanking your K&N (highly recommended) be sure to pull your sensor and clean with electrical contact cleaner and reset the ECM.
* There was an independent study done (over a period of two years) on drop in filter flows and filtering ability and K&N was on the bottom of the list on every single test...
On other point: K & N is one of the lowest flowing, least filtering filters in the drop in market... plus using ANY brand of 'oiled' filter can foul our MAF sensors ~ causing engine to lean out too much (pinging ~ detonation) under light load and light throttle situations. If you are yanking your K&N (highly recommended) be sure to pull your sensor and clean with electrical contact cleaner and reset the ECM.
* There was an independent study done (over a period of two years) on drop in filter flows and filtering ability and K&N was on the bottom of the list on every single test...
The "initial restriction" test,the lower the # the better.Paper will always filter better but cotton gauze will ALWAYS out flow it.You should really learn to research better.At almost stock levels a drop in really won't do much but as you increase power levels the stock paper becomes more of a restriciton an the HIGHER FLOWING filters (K&N ,Green,Perrin,yada yada..) start to actually make a difference.
Last edited by Donkey; 06-15-2006 at 04:33 AM.
06-22-2006, 04:00 PM
#219
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Ooops!
Originally Posted by Donkey
K&N was and is the HIGHEST FLOWING and if you look at the filtering efficiency there was only a difference of 3% between the highest and lowest.And the stock and STi paper filters are oiled paper.http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm
The "initial restriction" test,the lower the # the better.Paper will always filter better but cotton gauze will ALWAYS out flow it.You should really learn to research better.At almost stock levels a drop in really won't do much but as you increase power levels the stock paper becomes more of a restriciton an the HIGHER FLOWING filters (K&N ,Green,Perrin,yada yada..) start to actually make a difference.
The "initial restriction" test,the lower the # the better.Paper will always filter better but cotton gauze will ALWAYS out flow it.You should really learn to research better.At almost stock levels a drop in really won't do much but as you increase power levels the stock paper becomes more of a restriciton an the HIGHER FLOWING filters (K&N ,Green,Perrin,yada yada..) start to actually make a difference.
Some more half *** research. Bought and placed in the air-box ~ K&N/Green (oiled cotton) the STI (oiled paper) and the HKS (3 layered closed cell foam). Had a good buddy who is a Suby Tech come along and reset the ECM after each drop in and to be a second opinion. Did a ten mile loop (fast and hard corners with long straights). 1st I drove and then him (each of us got a chance to drive on the loop). Seat of pants results?
K&N and Green no discernible difference between them (throttle response, acceleration, drivability, etc.). The STI filter felt the same but the induction noise was a bit more. The HKS from even the passenger seat (with my buddy there) was noticeably different with throttle response and acceleration and willingness to rev. He confirmed this when he drove as well. It is the same induction noise volume as the STI filter (a bit louder then the K&N and Green).
So, left the HKS in and the car is very happy with the choice... and at $29/replacement, so am I.
For grins, put in the OEM again too. It was horrid. All 4 of the other filters were better...
Last edited by NW OBS; 06-22-2006 at 04:04 PM.
09-16-2006, 11:54 PM
#220
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Car Info: 00 Legacy GT Wgn
Normally Aspirated CAI in EJ25?
Most of the posts I am reading reflect opinions on turbos. I have a NA legacy GT that could definately use some more horsepower.
Seems like colder denser air at a Higher volume should aid in combustion. Granted it does make sense that the ECU would need updating.
First place I was going to start was CAI then headers exhaust etc.
Doesn't anything that aids the engines ability to breathe efficiently going to produce more HP. Especially NA engines. I know borla and stromung are touting 8-10 HP gains on DYNO.
Anyone who wants to talk about the advantages of Upgrading your electrical system as well. I would be interested in checking out a thread on that. That seems to make sense as well. All race cars use high output ignition systems don't they.
Maybe I am just buying into the BS
WANT MORE HP. Not to burn money.
Seems like colder denser air at a Higher volume should aid in combustion. Granted it does make sense that the ECU would need updating.
First place I was going to start was CAI then headers exhaust etc.
Doesn't anything that aids the engines ability to breathe efficiently going to produce more HP. Especially NA engines. I know borla and stromung are touting 8-10 HP gains on DYNO.
Anyone who wants to talk about the advantages of Upgrading your electrical system as well. I would be interested in checking out a thread on that. That seems to make sense as well. All race cars use high output ignition systems don't they.
Maybe I am just buying into the BS
WANT MORE HP. Not to burn money.
09-17-2006, 12:42 AM
#221
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An intake is a good thing on a N/A car. Electrical system will help but your stock system will be fine for a lightly modded car. If you get into heavy mods then yes, electrical is a must.
Where you at in the Northwest?
Where you at in the Northwest?
09-17-2006, 10:25 AM
#222
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Car Info: 00 Legacy GT Wgn
Washington
I am in Lacey, near Olympia. Am about to buy my first Subaru. Looking for a 00 GT. But hard to come buy. Need the space and want the gas mileage of a non turbo. Looking to do some spirited driving on my way up to Rainer this winter, when weather permits.
What are you driving.
Everybody here seems like a hardcore tuner driving a turbo of some type.
Legacy forums pretty week on good info on older GT's. Even LagacyGTforum is all about new turbos.
That is why my post is here, possibly out of place, but perhaps the thread could benifit from a new direction.
Anyone got any useful advice on a CAI for NA GT.
Currently planning to install injen CAI and a possible ECU update.
Does anyone know if Cobb or anyone else offers a mod ECU to enhance performance beyond just calibration for CAI.
What are you driving.
Everybody here seems like a hardcore tuner driving a turbo of some type.
Legacy forums pretty week on good info on older GT's. Even LagacyGTforum is all about new turbos.
That is why my post is here, possibly out of place, but perhaps the thread could benifit from a new direction.
Anyone got any useful advice on a CAI for NA GT.
Currently planning to install injen CAI and a possible ECU update.
Does anyone know if Cobb or anyone else offers a mod ECU to enhance performance beyond just calibration for CAI.
09-17-2006, 11:30 AM
#223
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Jakes02/Legacy Nut 13 Either of you planning to attend 'Subiefest' on November 18th in Seattle? I want to head up there a meet some of the members and their rides...
09-17-2006, 12:08 PM
#225
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If your Legacy has a MAP sensor, like the SOHC EJ25 does, then basically any intake will help. But if it has a MAF sensor, than I would just stick to a silencer delete. The principles are the same for intakes with turbo and NA engines- you don't want to mess with a MAF sensor on either one with EM to compensate for changes in how it reads the airflow.