stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

Just want to get a little bit of feeback before I go in for my retune.

Back in 2009 I got a protune @ GST for a VF34 setup on my swapped rs.
Results here:
https://www.i-club.com/forums/vendor...n-mike-204634/

Since that day I've added some more parts (highlighted in green) and more recently in the last 2 months switched from a high flow cat dp to catless dp.

Now recently the car seems to be getting even worse gas mileage than before whether im on/off boost and more frequent backfires. Can't really determine any loss of power since it still feels about the same. Also didn't realize till a few days ago that I can't get a retune on my APV1 since its no longer supported, I'll be upgrading to V3.

Here is the current setup I'll be bringing it in with:

02 WRX EJ205 (@ ~91k as of 12/2/14)
02 WRX ECU
Cobb APV3 (previously V1)
Vishnu UD crank pulley
Perrin MAF hose (previously stock)
Perrin turbo inlet
SSAC TMIC
VF34
STI 565cc pink injectors
GM boost solenoid
Walbro 255 pump
NGK BKR7E plugs
Borla header ceramic coated (previously stock)
Helix uppipe
Titek catless downpipe (previously Perrin catted dp)
Custom 3" midpipe
Brullen 3" axleback

I've also reviewed Cobb's dyno tune checklist
Technical Articles

For the most part my car is very up to date on maintenance (hardly burns any oil) but I'm planning to knock out the following before the tune:

• Oil change
• Fuel filter change
• Spark plug change
• Check & top off all fluids
• Clean air filter
• Clean MAF sensor
• Check MAF sensor seal
• Check all intake, vacuum and intercooler connections
• Replace bov gasket
• Clean & lubricate bov
• Check for exhaust leaks on entire exhaust
• Fill up with 76 91oct morning of tune
• Check engine grounding connections
• Check alignment
• Put summer wheels/tires back on

Is there anything else I should consider about my setup or pre-tune checklist?

Hoping I can hit 265+ whp & 230+ wtq this time, seem reasonable enough?

Also is there any downside to getting tuned on "winter gas"? I was tuned on summer gas last time I believe.

Rescuer

iTrader: (9)

a very small tweak to timing for winter/summer i believe

akdmx

iTrader: (6)

Are you going to get it tuned on the same dyno? Has it been calibrated differently since your last tune? You've added parts but you've also added miles to the engine. Just trying to help you manage your expectations.

stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

Yea same mustang dyno @ GST afaik... I can't say for the calibration, I'd have to ask Mike about that.

glenspen

iTrader: (3)

The fact you added headers and went catless without a retune seems like rolling the dice a little no? The quicker you retune the better

Mike will let You know pretty quickly if you have any major issues but with the extra mods and tune you should pick up a few horses/torques low down in the rev range

Remember to not **** off Mike by asking for a MBC, ever, or an intake or BOV below 350whp

DatAWSTi

iTrader: (1)

It's an 02 wrx you can run catless downpipes and intakes. The ECU can manage it better than 04+

stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

I put the header on a few years ago but I had Mike datalog the car shortly afterwards to see if there were any issues and got the thumbs up.

Catless downpipe has been on for less than 1000 miles.

fishie

iTrader: (2)

Gonna take a wild guess. 280w 230lb.

porkchop

Sounds like plugs to me or a sticky/leaking injector...also check your fuel filter.

With the headers you'll pick up more mid and upper end.

If I recall, I made 280~290 on the GST dyno when I had ej205, vf34, fmic, and stock headers. If your car can hold boost, your numbers should be pretty good.

stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

^Yea just picked up fresh plugs & a new fuel filter yesterday, I'll get those put in soon.

I'll take a closer look at my injectors for leaks but I haven't been smelling any gas fumes in the engine bay so far, installed them with brand new o rings before my last tune.

Thats pretty damn good for a 34 if you made over 280whp!

porkchop

Not injector leaking from the rails, leaking within the TGV, from the pintle. Sometimes debris from the tank gets pass the filter and can jam the needle open.

Yea it was one of the higher ones, I think Mike still has the charts somewhere. But the numbers doesn't mean much, as it varies too much from dyno to dyno. Before some of the parts and tune, We took my car to another mustang dyno it made over 300awhp, drove back to the shop and straight on the GST dyno and it made 250ish.

stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

Ok, wasn't sure what you meant at first.

How would I be able to diagnose this?

porkchop

So when you say poor gas mileage, how poor? a few mpg?

If the poor gas mileage have been going on for a while, and if there is a stuck injector, the plug should be a bit damp/strong fuel smell/really really black, burnt. One of those might be a sign of injector issue.

It can also be bad plugs if they're worn, basically poor combustion.

I would change the plugs, reset the ecu and drive around a bit and let the adaptive fuel map kick in, keeping an eye on the mpg.

If you have AFR reading on the car, you can see if it goes way lean or rich.

or just take it to Mike and tell him stop being a bee-eye-itch and tune it...=)

stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

Well its hard to say since I haven't been driving it a lot but... if I fill up to at least a half tank then it seems like I can only make 3-4 trips around town locally until I'm almost at empty again. (this is with the catless dp)

Also, I think it got worse over that past year even with my previous downpipe. The Perrin catted dp I had on was purchased used back in 2006 and has been on the car until August of this year (8 yrs), so I was thinking that was another possibility why my mpg has sunk? Maybe the cat was deteriorating or getting clogged.

I'll take some photos of my plugs and post em here once they're out.

porkchop

I believe perrin uses a metal low cell cat. Unless it's high mileage and/or you've been back firing through it, I doubt it'll be clogged.

You can always stick a bore scope through the 02 bung if you're worried.