Hey, everyone. I'm at 65K and I want to throw some new plugs at my 'Rex. It's pretty much stock besides the airbox mod and DIY grounds. Does anyone have any suggestions on a new set of plugs? Also, is there a decent How-To for doing the change out there? I'm still in the process of tracing my boosting problem, and I was thinking of letting the Subaru garage do the plug swap when they go in to check the turbo. Would that be a better way to go?

While we're on the topic, and as a sidenote, what do y'all suggest as far as mileage on a timing belt?

check out www.scoobymods.com they have instructions along with pictures.
:D

Specifically here:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=511

And here:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=166

Excellent. Thanks for the links...I'm still in the process of digging up all the internet resources for this thing. (Damn my Honda years...=P)

Does anyone have a recomendation on the Timing belt? I've heard varying stories as to when you actually need to begin worrying about it, and the topic came up this week when my friend blew the head off of his Saab Turbo with a broken timing chain...I'd rather not wait that long. =)

Looking for a god place to get one step colder Iridium plugs for my WRX. Anyone got part #'s or places to order them? Thanks.
Dial-up is hell on internet searches.

One step colder-than-stock NGK Iridiums is BKR7EIX (http://www.clubplug.net/retail_iridium_ngk.html).

I had to read a convoluted thread on the other board but fortunately Uncle Scotty helped sort things out over there.

It does matter which plug you get. Some are designed for other applications and have a large gap, while others, like the one I cited above come closer to having the proper gap. You won't have to bend that side electrode at some horrendous angle to achieve the proper gap.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

>Does anyone have a recomendation on the Timing belt?

Not till 105K if I remember right

Excellent. Thanks!

Careful on plugs DJ - I love all the new stuff and bells and whistles on plugs - After many hours and bloody knuckles, I trudged into the dealer for OE. I did much research and found that for me (no engine mods) OE did it best. As much as I wanted to extract more juice out of the engine with lunar rock insulated electrodes and argon filled ceramic coated triple gap sensors and plutonium gaskets with Abercrombie/Fitch plug tips, OE did it best on a stock engine.

Please someone tell me that I'm wrong so I can justify an inexpensive weekend upgrade.

i need some of those plugs...they sound hardcore

on a wrx w/ the obvious bolt-on's what kind of dyno gains should i expect:confused: :banana:

Originally posted by Wingless Wonder
One step colder-than-stock NGK Iridiums is BKR7EIX (http://www.clubplug.net/retail_iridium_ngk.html).

I had to read a convoluted thread on the other board but fortunately Uncle Scotty helped sort things out over there.

It does matter which plug you get. Some are designed for other applications and have a large gap, while others, like the one I cited above come closer to having the proper gap. You won't have to bend that side electrode at some horrendous angle to achieve the proper gap.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

Yeah....I get things right once in a while:)

And, the "stock" plugs are no longer manufactured by NGK.
They were Platnium, the replacements are Iridium. Platnium is a terrible conductor, Iridum is a bit better. The reason these metals are used is that they provide an extended service life in comparison to copper, which is a FAR better conductor but need replacement far more frequently but cost much less....which leaves us with costs more/last longer....or costs less/doesn't last as long.....:rolleyes: :banana:

For the NGK copper plug use BKR6E for stock heat range or BKR7Efor one range colder. These are ~$2/ea.

Good luck, and be absolutly sure that you don't cross thread the plug in the head!!! For the WRX 15ft-lbs. torque on sparkplugs.

Origami posted by HTM WRX
on a wrx w/ the obvious bolt-on's what kind of dyno gains should i expect
None. The only benefit of precious metal (platinum or iridium) spark plugs is the extended service life. The possible benefit of a one step colder heat range spark plug is less inclination to detonate under sustained boost but it won't make up for poor engine management on a modded turbo engine. Go too cold in heat range and the plugs may have a tendency to foul after extended street driving.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

Heh...Abercrombie is making *everything* these days. =)

I'll have the car at the dealer today, so I'm going to have them do the plug install. Might as well...they'll have the coils out, so they might as well take care of the rest while they're in there.

And I value my knuckles...=)

heat range doesnt effect the gap, heat range effects how far the electrode protrudes into the cylinder from the insulator. You want it far out, only problem is in a high performance motor if its too far out it'll eventually turn into a secondary ignition source when it gets white hot. A colder plug moves the electrode further in to prevent this.

Just to clarify the NGK Iridium spark plug choice, the BKR7EIX is the correct heat range plug if one step colder is desired.

Some folks use the similar Iridium plug, BKR7EIX-11, which is identical except that NGK configured the side electrode (it's taller) to give a .044" gap, making it less desirable than the previously mentioned plug to use the recommended 0.028" to 0.029" gap. It can be re-gapped but the side electrode has to be bent significantly to narrow the gap to the center electrode.

Order the correct plug, keeping the side electrode closer to perpendicular to the center electrode, and you also won't risk breaking off that side electrode.

(thanks again, Uncle Scotty!)

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

Originally posted by Br1t1shguy
heat range doesnt effect the gap, heat range effects how far the electrode protrudes into the cylinder from the insulator. You want it far out, only problem is in a high performance motor if its too far out it'll eventually turn into a secondary ignition source when it gets white hot. A colder plug moves the electrode further in to prevent this.

This isn't quite correct.
The heat range relates the sparkplug's ability to remove heat from itself in the cylinder. A 'colder' plug conducts more heat to the head to help cool the plug between firings so that it doesn't become an ignition scource, unfired. More boost, and leaner AF mixtures increase combustion temperatures and thus heat the plug more. A colder plug cools faster and thus is better for a higher performance application.

Good spark plug info here:

Click me (http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/techtips.asp?nav=31000&country=)


http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/chartheatratingflowpath.gif

interesting note here, I've been looking for a local place for the copper NGK BKR7E plugs, but no auto parts stores (kragen, pep boys, autozone, all pro, etc...) seem to stock them. that plug is more commonly used in motorcycles like Kawasaki's and Yamaha's. The first local bike shop I called had plenty in stock.

interesting note here, I've been looking for a local place for the copper NGK BKR7E plugs, but no auto parts stores (kragen, pep boys, autozone, all pro, etc...) seem to stock them. that plug is more commonly used in motorcycles like Kawasaki's and Yamaha's. The first local bike shop I called had plenty in stock.

As do we ;)

Mike

turbo xs reccomends NGK PFR7G if you have a utec and want to replace your plugs. .. so what should i go with???

I think the OE NGKs are still avail from NGK....PFR6G. They also are OE for some Volvo applications.

The plug swap job is a little tedious. It's best to set aside a good couple of hours the first time you do it. I did my first plug change in about 1.5 hr, and ran into no problems. It gets tight down at the cam covers, you'll need a short extension and a good plug socket. Yes, be really careful installing the new plugs, start them by hand and get them snug by hand before you start racheting them in.

The colder plug will allow the plug to transfer heat away through the plug body (through to the cylinder head) more efficiently than a "hot" plug. The cold plug has less material at the center electrode shell exposed to combustion than the hot plug does.

What I wonder about, will the # 7 plug (one step colder in NGK), make the knock sensor less sensitive? Let me re-phrase that: will the colder plug cause less detonation, in turn less triggers to the knock sensor and the ECU will retard timing less frequently? In theory it makes sense, but has anybody tested the 7's in a bone-stock motor?

Thanks-
Jim

What I wonder about, will the # 7 plug (one step colder in NGK), make the knock sensor less sensitive? Let me re-phrase that: will the colder plug cause less detonation, in turn less triggers to the knock sensor and the ECU will retard timing less frequently? In theory it makes sense, but has anybody tested the 7's in a bone-stock motor?

Thanks-
Jim

I'm going to try and log a run this weekend and compare to a run before I changed to the #7 plugs. if there's anything significant, like a bump in Advance Multiplier or knock correction, I'll post something about it.

I'm going to try and log a run this weekend and compare to a run before I changed to the #7 plugs. if there's anything significant, like a bump in Advance Multiplier or knock correction, I'll post something about it.

Cool....please post what you find, I suspect Subaru dictates the 6 heat range for keepinfg the plug clean for long duration use and for environmental reasons, but maybe somewhat sacrificing all out performance when the car is driven in anger, as we all know what it feels like when you bog the motor and you get a little PING and then she runs like a wet dog. Try short shifting on a hill when you've got the AC on and you're done for. I'm hoping the colder plug will make the knock sensor less ticklish and convince it to calm down. Maybe Subaru engineered it to be safe when grandma loafs the car up hills at 1900rpm in 3rd gear in summer, but for those of us that know how to drive the car.....

Thanks
Jim R.

I'm going to try and log a run this weekend and compare to a run before I changed to the #7 plugs. if there's anything significant, like a bump in Advance Multiplier or knock correction, I'll post something about it.

Any results ever come from this test?

How good are the Denso Iridium Spark Plugs compare to the NGKs? I am running a stage 2 with COBB Access Port ECU and I don't know if I should go with the; One Range Colder, or the Stock Heat Range in the spark plugs and if I should go with Denso or NGK. Any recommendations will be great.

I have NGK Coppers, one step colder, can't wait to toil under my car to change them. Got mine from www.sparkplugs.com

Check your local polaris dealer for plugs in stock.

NAPA carries them.

I have NGK Coppers, one step colder, can't wait to toil under my car to change them. Got mine from www.sparkplugs.com

i think doing it from under the car is the hard way...


;)

Spark plug gap should always be checked as a precaution, even if they are the correct plugs for your application. Plug gap should be .026" to .028" (http://www.vishnutuning.com/files/Spark_Plug_Inst.doc) (Microsoft Word file) according to colder plug installation info on Vishnu site (thanks to Egan and BAN SUVS).

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

Any results ever come from this test?
things seemed to remain the same. i had the car dyno tuned the next weekend anyway, so any "butt dyno" observations are inconclusive.