1) I have a 1.8 Sohc

2) I can get a mid 90s 2.2 16V

3) I can get a 2.5 long block that was "noisey"-any ideas what it might need? (warrenty replaced)

4) I spotted a DOHC engine in the core pile at the junkyard-don't know anything about it (4 cam pulleys)

I want about 200-250hp and alot of torque.

I was thinking of fixing the 2.5 and putting the DOHC heads on it (will they fit?). Can I machine a dish in the stock 2.5 pistons or are they to thin? Any other ways to lower the compression (cheap)?

Will a Subaru IHI work at all with this setup? How about a T3 with an a/r of .42 compressor and .48 turbin side?

What engine manigment should I try and get from the junkyard?

The stock pistons are too thin to dish I think. By the looks of my broken #4 piston the center of the piston is pretty thin.

The long block with the noise... may be pooched in the heads. Is the noise comming from the head area or the short block area. It may need to have valve train work done.

That DOHC enging may be the gem of the bunch. Is it a 2.2 ltr? if so, find out if the engine was a turbo engine. If it is and it is in working order, go for it. That's the one to get.

I run a T3/T4 Garrett on my set up and I make between 270-300 hp at the fly with 300-340 torque at the fly. Colder weather makes it more powerful. I run a built up 2.5 block with 8.5 to 1 CR. TEC 3 PEMS and parallel fuel rail mod 12 PSI with peaks to 14 PSI.

So, at the wheels, you should get close to 200 hp with 7-8 psi on stock internals with a stock 2.5 engine. Just make damn sure you get programable engine management to keep from breaking.

Paul...

Well I just found out I can only get a 2.5 "short block" they reused the heads on the new engine.. So assuming they dignosed it right the noise must be from in the case.

How do I identify a 2.2, 2.5, or 2.0 engine form the others on the engine core pile? How can I tell if it was a turbo engine?

Is the 1.8 shortblock strong? I was thinking of using the DOHC heads and intake on it-just a thought.

There should be casting numbers and ID numbers on the side of the short block stating what engine it is. I am not sure what the numbers are for the turbo 2.2 block. You may want to post this question on another forum to see more answeres.

Paul...

Top front of the block behind the power steering.
EJ25 = 2.5L
EJ22= 2.2
EJ20= 2.0

There may be more after the 22 like 2207 or 2204. I don't remember which one is turbo, but the size should be very obvious.

the noise is from the first batch of pistons, they weren't using offset wrist pins, so in the colder climate the got a little slap happy, it's a fine casing for building up.

-Paul

My monster is based on a 2.5 piston slap TSB swapped casing (everything else is replaced)

I have a question, if i buy a bigger top mount intercooler and a pe 1820 turbo is the top mount intercooler goin to handle that turbo or would i have to buy a front mount intercooler?

That question involves some very serious thermodynamics. An easier way to get us to estimate a yes or no answer is to tell us which intercooler, and your estimated hp with your current turbo and with the new one.

get one of those 220 hp ej20's from a japanese engine shop. they are going for $700-1000 complete.

Yeah, you are about a week late- a 1993 JDM EJ20T complete front clip went for ~$1200 on eBay. Would be right at home in a sleeper OBS, haha.

i was at an japanese engine shop a few weeks ago and they were selling a my98 sti front clip for $2500. seems like a good deal. had the dash, ecu, wiring, engine, tranny, and everything, but driveshavft and rear end.

Originally posted by stealth-wrx
i was at an japanese engine shop a few weeks ago and they were selling a my98 sti front clip for $2500. seems like a good deal. had the dash, ecu, wiring, engine, tranny, and everything, but driveshavft and rear end.

What a sweet deal. Toss that into a $3500 Impreza OBS w/ like $1000 of springs, struts, and RSB and some rubber and it's a giant killer.

should i buy it to sell? how much could i sell it all for

If you had the right buyer, maybe 4k. eBay can be your friend!

cool thanks for the info. too bad we jack the thread. lol

Threadjacking is not a crime! haha. Besides, we are still talking about a swap, which is in spirit of the original post. Right guys?

ok i am just gonna atttach my questions to your thread since they are silimar. lets say i wanted to do a ej25 buildup in a 1999 impreza rs, and then go turbo. are there enough aftermarket parts to make the ej25 as strong as the ej20t that the wrx's get? i know it would consist of changing out most if no all internals, but since i would plan on keeping the car it wouldn't matter. so is it possible to get about 350 horses to the ground out of the ej25?

if you build your ej25 you can get easy 350 to the wheels. the trans my be a problem. i would suggest perhaps an sti 6 speed. it has good ratios and can hold 350 to the wheels. it cost alot though. as for the motor you can get your block completely built with internals and sleaves for a little over $2500 if you are supplying a block. i would also suggest a little mild head work if you are going that far. you can get some mild work done for $1000-1300. so for a little under 4 you could have a long block capable of at least 400-450 to the wheels with proper tuning, fuel and turbo. hope this helps.

could someone start a thread on some combinations that they have been think of to get some real power out of the ej25. and is it possible to get a jdm ej25t if they made them?

First let me start by saying, don't think it's gonna be cheap. Also, if you say it can be done cheap, it won't last.

So anyways, I have a thread on cti-club.com with my engine buildup. It is much further along since my last post and will be road ready by the end of february.

So here is the deal, It's very expensive to build the 2.5, but very worth it. Here is a basic breakdown.....

From subaru you will need thing such as new head bolts bearing, engine seal kit, etc.... expect to spend anywhere from 1500-2500 at the local stealer. (It's 450 just for the bearings)

You will need a nice turbo figure 1000-1800 depending on model and type, I went with the SR40, which just came in last week :)

You will need a nice set of forged rods, Pauter is my recommendation, 720$

For Pistons, I hate JE, but figure 500-700

In the heads, you can have some work done to them if you feel like it, but in either case i recommend good ferrea valves, 700, stronger valvesprings and retainers 500 and have web do a little work on the cams 500, Mine have a more agressive lift than stock, but once the motor is running and broken in with the new tranny in the summer I'm going to do an intake/exhaust pressure ratio analysis and have cams custom made, still 500.

Exhaust manifold will run you from 700-1200 depending on which one.

Then the turbo back exhaust will run from 1000 on up

Figure 1200 for the intercooler

then the sti intake manifold is another 500

another 450 for fuel rails

750 for injectors

Then for management you have options, ECUTek, unichip (not recommending unichip) Link (do they have it for RS? haven't been paying attention), Motec, Haltech, Autronic, etc... These can range anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand

I went with the Autronic SM2 which runs 2000, Be careful with some ECU options, I chose the autronic because of it's incredible injector driving capabilities, It should idle my motor no problem with the 850cc injectors, which will be running at stock fuel pressure, regulated by dual wrx fuel pressure regulators running the fuel rails in parallel. Anyways, also needed a CDI ignition to go with that, which ran an additional 500 (M&W) and a boost controller, reluctor interface, etc... it doesn't end, total ECU laid out is 3000$

So anyways, total price to have my motor capable of 400+ Hp and be tunable in what should be a very reliable and safe setup....

$15,000 yes, FIFTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS!!!!

(That only about 98% of everything to get the motor running, I'm still figuring on another 1000 to spend easy) (Oh, did I forget to mention that I'm doing all the work myself? That's savings right there)

and that is without the amount for the $4500 tranny gears, and 2500$ in diffs.

So get cheap out of your mind, and just for reference my final quote "DO IT RIGHT, OR DON'T DO IT"

on my cti-club.com post their are pictures of the blown motor from my screwing around, not done right days

man you only spent $15,000. my set up is already at that with no tranny.

Hey, stealth, read again, mine doesn't include a tranny either, it's all parts too, no labor costs :)

with tranny, and diffs i'll be near 25k not fun, and i hate to think about it, at least labor is FREE :) :)

no kidding. we are going broke. what set up are you running. also what fuel rails do you have. i am lacking fuel rails and a fuel pump. i am trying to get a hold of a 310 lph pump.

In either case, stealth and I are both proving that it's expensive to do it right.

Fuel rails are MRT, yeah yeah, everyone say stuff about them vs. the perrin, but whatever, O-ring are big and nipples small, but fuel flow is fuel flow, follow fluid dynamics, the pump pushes a fuel amount, with a smaller opening it'll increase pressure to meet flow, larger diameter lowers pressure, very simple. As for the o-rings it doesn't matter if MRT isn't around in 5 years if the oring goes bad, why, cause you can get o-rings from any industrial supply place, it's not like they are super special, they are standard rubber o-rings. That aside, things i like about the MRT, It uses two stock fuel pressure regulators, which is good for people running stock fuel pressure with really large injectors like me. The dual regulators on the end of each rail also allow both rails to be fed sperately with pressure regulated seperatly, which is almost like running two seperate fuel systems, aside from the single pump.

As for the Pump I went with the walbro 255lph high pressure pump. In my original turbo app. I used a fuel pressure riser to raise pressure in the rails to about 110 psi at full boost using the stock injectors (for reference they were locked open at this point and just dumping fuel) anyways 850cc/min injectors equate to .85l/min or 51 lph which times 4 would be 204lph, but only one injector at a time would ever be firing, so max fuel required would really be just about 51lph, so go laugh about that :)

i agree on the o-ring deal. everyone says its such a bad thing. all fuel injectors seal on o-rings. i dont hear anyone complaining. also many aftermarket fuel pressure regulators seal on o-rings. oh well. people will learn some day.