Today on the freeway the RS-T suddenly lost power, my foot was on the gas just at cruiseing speed and the car dropped power and started to slow, this was maybe fifteen seconds after a small about of boost coming onto the freeway. I mashed on the gas and nothing was there. I down shifted, more gas and still nothing. Then all of a sudden i got power back, for a few seconds, then it was gone again. This went on for about 30 seconds. I pulled off the freeway because I was exiting anyway, and was able to drive the car into the first parking lot. Then the car sat and idled fine, it responded to throttle and everything, the problem was gone. All gauges and such were completely legit during all this. Anyone have any ideas. This is pretty though it could be a ton of things.

The car has:

-wrx fuel pump (doubt it was the problem)
-CARTECH RRFPR
-stock injectors
-J&S knock computer
-Minnam kit running 5 psi
-Field SFC (turned off)

It was fuel cut or no spark, at least that's what I think.

Sounds like an intermittent boost leak.

It's not a boost leak. The car wasn't under "boost conditions" when it crapped out. I'm not talking about a loss in "wow that car's fast" power, I'm talking there was zero combustion in any cyclinder.

I've had the same problems with my RS-t. mine did it a few times and I would have to down shift and pop the clutch to get it to turn back on. I reset my ecu a couple of times and its been about a year since. I don't know what caused it and I can't figure it out but if you do find something out let me know!


98 RS-T
minnam stage 2
vortech rrfpr
field afc
supra tt fuel pump
370cc silvia injectors
5psi
blown headgasket(second time)

Two head gaskets eh. That sucks. What are you using the Field SFC for? Since I put the RRFPR in I just turned the thing off, It seemed pretty worthless anyway. The SFC couldn't handle any sort of part throttle non boost driving. When ever you got to high rpms and weren't at an open enough throttle position (boost) the car would sutter like a mother from being way to rich.

the field afc is zeroed out right now. with the blown gasket, I have to cruise around and try to avoid going into boost or it'll spit coolant and overheat. so I'm saning for an STI shortblock and gaskets!

Damn, you guys need to trace back your fuel and test the resistance on your injectors. Are you running rich during this or lean?

mine happened at a steady cruise in fifth gear,no boost. instant loss of power as if the ignition was turned off!

Mine was exactly the same: no boost, cruising, and then no nothing... I swear there was no combustion, as in no spark.

But just for reference, what resistance values should the injectors have. Also, when injectors "lock up" do they lock open or closed.

I am getting a similar problem also. Everytime I let go of the gas the needle drops to zero RPM's and then comes back up. 50% of the time me downshifting saves it from dying. I have the Greddy E-manage set up and this issue began when I was getting the wrong throttle position. I believe this could be the TCP sensor. I'm not sure but I am gonna take it to a pro and get it checked out.

tecniks: your problem sound like your blow off valve needs to be adjusted tighter! I've had that problem also, you just have to tighten the adjuster on the top of the blow off valve!

Sounds too simple, like it might actually work. Try it and let us know if that fixes.

Thanks! I will check today and see if that works. I will let you guys know tomorow

Injector resistance should read about the same for all 4, I don't know the exact reading though, but if one is significantly higher, then you have a prob.

I'm having a similar problem now, mine gets so bad that I have to pull over and let the car cool off before continuing driving- it really sucks!! I'm running an Apex'i S-AFC, so I'll probably disconnect it tomorrow. Seems worthless anyway, no matter how it's adjusted. Hope that works, cause I've spent hours diagnosing my fuel system, and it's working fine.

Since this happened to me the first time it hasn't happened again. I did take the SFC completely out and solderd all the ECU wires back together. I also took out all my crimp connectors in the J&S Safeguard/ECU combo and made all the joints solderd. I drove the car for a full week though with no changes and it didn't happen again. Who knows.

impreza7:
I've heard of the factory ECU slowly recalibrating itself against the S AFC. what you would have to do is disconnect the battery to reset the computer. when you start the car don't touch anything for 2 minutes. that should give the car time to adjust itself to stock condition. then turn on the fuel computer and set your calibrations.after a few days, you will slowly have to adjust everything till its all out of whack again. then you have to go through the whole process all over. you shouldn't have to do it that often.

Had the same problem with my kit.
I'm running the Blitz blowoff valve.
What are you guys running.
I know my BOV sticks open a lot. Sinced I lubed it and tightened it I haven't had this problem as much.

Ludespeed Stage I with the Stage III turbo.
COBB Cams
Borla Headers
5lbs of boost
Vortech RRFPR
VC2 Voltage Clamp
etc etc.
Stock injectors

Hmm, from what most peole have experienced, it seems like an AFC problem? I thought that the issue of ECUs relearning around an AFC was only a problem on 00-01 cars, which is why RRFPRs are used with these cars and AFCs with 98-99s. Did anyone clear this up? I am not exactly looking forward to experiencing this myself when I install my setup (including an S-AFC) soon.

jonathan

Man, I'd be having second thoughts about running that AFC. It's not working out too well for me!!

AFC is soooo expensive..
You could get a split second fuel and timing controller with 3D mapping and everything for about the same price.
Screw the AFC.

Originally posted by ImprezaRSX
AFC is soooo expensive..
You could get a split second fuel and timing controller with 3D mapping and everything for about the same price.
Screw the AFC.
:confused: Which product(s) are you referring to?

jonathan

I have a FIELD Hyper AFC

Split Second FTC1
For $529 you get a 2 bar map sensor that is adjustable +/- 2.5Volts, for total control over your map and you get timing retard up to 20degrees whenever you want it.
For an additional 50 bucks you get the ability to add 4 - 5Volt data aquisition channels for recording runs and comparing your readings to help you troubleshoot and tune.

With the FTC1 you can run much larger injectors. I'm installing 550cc RC Eng Injectors.

www.splitsec.com

just a note, if you are going to run this EM, make sure you use a hard line (like 1/8" Nylon tubing) to connect the MAP sensor. If you get long rubber hoses, then you'll have a hesitation off idle because the hose flexes and makes the FTC1 respond slower.