RS 2.5, 2000

I recently changed my oil on Nov.19th, I checked the oil level when I was done and the stick indicated it was full! I checked the following day to make sure there were no leaks around the filter and drain plug. Yesterday I checked it to just to see the color and if it need any oil added, the dipstick I thought betrayed my eyes', so I pulled it out again, barely a drop on the very bottom of the dipstick, I checked around the filter and drain plug no sign of leaks. I didn't smell any burning oil when I have been driving, this happened the last oil change too, but I was alittle over due for an oil change so I thought that was the reason. I'm taking it to the dealership Friday to get checked what should I ask them to look for concerning this! Also my oil light never came on, which was suprising due to the little amount of oil. Are there any other things I should have them check since my car is at 50,000 miles?
I though maybe my driving style would have caused this loss of oil, I drive aprox. 50 miles round trip to work, I reach top speed of 100mph daily would this have any thing to do with my oil problem, one more thing what is the drive train warranty on these cars? Thnak you for your reply's and suggestions.

1) Check it again after it's warmed up. Temps are dropping enough to make a big difference in oil volume.

2) Did you add the missing oil back in? don't let it fall below 1 quart low, you're ok above that though.

3) 5 years, 60k powertrain. I would suggest having the 30k service done by the dealer at 59k, because they will look really hard for anything that should be replaced, which would be under warranty still. Also, 30k services are a good thing to do, either dealer or DIY.

yes I added oil to bring it up to full level and checked at cold and warm tempatures. What is done at the 30k service?

Oil light comes on with low oil pressure not low level. As long as your oil pump had a suction on your oil in your pan you shouldn't get the light.

When you changed your oil, did you fill up the oil filter or put it on dry? IF you put it on without filling it up, then checked the level without running it for a minute, you will see a full level. Then after you run it, the oil goes to the filter and next time you check you'll be low.

The filter thing was the first thing I thought of, but he said it was full the next day. As far as 30k service, you can see the checklist and full maintenance schedule at www.subaru.com.

Oh yeah, he did say that.

However, he did say he was overdue for a change. I think it's most likely normal losses. Our motors naturally use oil. They also have no filter or catch can in the PCV system. This causes them to consume more oil also. I know that I have to add oil in between changes. I always have. Also, once it starts to go low it uses more oil faster. I think it's probably because the oil temp goes up when there's less oil which causes more oil vapor to be suspended and get sucked into the intake.

Any way to add a filter or bypass in the PCV to avoid that? Like some other make/model part we can frankenstein in?

Yeah I've had the same problem, only when I cange my oil I reset my trip and just leave on and when I hit 1,500 miles I'll check my oil and add any that's needed. Well a couple of weeks ago I checked it and it was 4 quarts low!!! I filled it to full and kept driving. maybe 2 weeks later I checked it again before I did some snow driving and it was a quart low. I use Moble 1 5-30. When it's cold out I usually let it sit for 30 seconds then drive to where I gotta go but untill it's warm I'll drive at like 4 k rpms. I just changed it to 10-30 yesterday and I'm gonna stop warming my car up like that and stop beating the hell out of my car. Hopefully that works

Originally posted by Supraru
Yeah I've had the same problem, only when I cange my oil I reset my trip and just leave on and when I hit 1,500 miles I'll check my oil and add any that's needed. Well a couple of weeks ago I checked it and it was 4 quarts low!!! I filled it to full and kept driving. maybe 2 weeks later I checked it again before I did some snow driving and it was a quart low. I use Moble 1 5-30. When it's cold out I usually let it sit for 30 seconds then drive to where I gotta go but untill it's warm I'll drive at like 4 k rpms. I just changed it to 10-30 yesterday and I'm gonna stop warming my car up like that and stop beating the hell out of my car. Hopefully that works

Uh... yeah. Your motor is dead. It only holds 4+ quarts, so you were running on less than half a quart. Just rebuild it now and save yourself the anguish of watching it die a slow, horrible death. In the meantime, try switching to regular oil instead of synthetic. The larger molecules might slow down the rate of leakage/consumption. Also, let it idle naturally for maybe 2 or 3 minutes in the morning and then drive normal. My 2.5 never needs more than 3 or 4 blocks to warm up enough to use the heater, and revving it up before it really gets the oil flowing is probably why you are using so much oil. Just get in and turn the key, and by the time you have buckled up, changed the station, looked for CELs, and put it in gear, you can drive at low RPMs with no worries. I guess I am right on this since I have almost exactly 30k on my '01 and I use maybe half a quart every 3k, using Mobil 5-30 synthetic or Redline 5-30.

By the way I was using castrol gtx non sythetic 10w30.
Anyways I took it in to the dealership, they said qoute and have documented " Subaru say's it is normal to lose about a court of oil every 2,000-3,000 miles." Is this true! They were real short with me and I asked about a noise I hear while shifting, they said they looked and found nothing, the guy said" well it could cost me a small fortune just to find out where the noise is coming from," I was so mad when I left, they basicly told me I was lying and that I didn't know what I was talking about! Then I had then cut me a key cuz I lost mine and only had the valet, so they made a copy of the valet instead of the normal key! Then I don't know why I even bothered but I asked how much to install cams, a whopping $800-$900, that just sounds high, what is an average price for cam install with gaskets or seals needed?

Originally posted by JAYFRESSH
By the way I was using castrol gtx non sythetic 10w30.
Anyways I took it in to the dealership, they said qoute and have documented " Subaru say's it is normal to lose about a court of oil every 2,000-3,000 miles." Is this true! They were real short with me and I asked about a noise I hear while shifting, they said they looked and found nothing, the guy said" well it could cost me a small fortune just to find out where the noise is coming from," I was so mad when I left, they basicly told me I was lying and that I didn't know what I was talking about! Then I had then cut me a key cuz I lost mine and only had the valet, so they made a copy of the valet instead of the normal key! Then I don't know why I even bothered but I asked how much to install cams, a whopping $800-$900, that just sounds high, what is an average price for cam install with gaskets or seals needed?

Lots of questions, I'll try to be brief with answers.

Yes, some oil loss is normal as your boxer motor gets older. It's just the price you pay for the torque from the configuration. What they're telling you is a little high, but probably just to cover their collective asses.

You'll have to be very specific about the noise or demonstrate it to a tech (not a service writer) on a demo drive before they will chase a gremlin like that. Dealers are very leary of that kind of thing, because they will have to spend dozens of hours to troubleshoot, still may not find the cause, and always end up with a very pissed off customer. Pissing you off for free is a lot better business than pissing you off with a $2,000 repair bill.

The key thing, well, that's your fault if you gave them the valet to copy. They just put it in a little machine that duplicates it. Get it cut by the VIN next time and you'll get the ignition/door key.

The cam price is pretty standard. Dealers go by a book that basically says how many hours a job takes, and that's what it costs no matter how long it actually takes the mechanic to do (this makes good mechanics very rich). So, your only way to cut down the price is to talk them into a discount on the labor rate (good luck) or find an independent shop you trust who may be a little cheaper. Either way it won't be cheap.

just recently bought an 03 subaru 2.5rs.work at a dealer on isuzus but good friends with the subaru tech,he just had a legacy in the other day with excessive oil usage.it ended up having a couple broken piston rings.warranty! have the dealer show u in writing about the oil usage.if they aren't cooperating see another dealer or request to talk to the subaru zone rep.and your noise on shifting,mine does the same thing brand new--5speed right
its normal gear whine that vibrates threw the casing.a buddy of mine has a new suzuki aerio,had the same noise.pretty normal.hope this helps!

the cam install is a pretty big job. not as bad now as when they had valve lash shims. you had measure clearances and all that good stuff. that takes most of the time. the engines have solid lifters though. but the job still requires pulling the engine out to get at the heads. and this takes some time. on the gear noise, it is some what common. however it would be worth it to check the 80/90 gear oil level in the transmission. the dipstick might be a little hard to get at though. its on the passenger side behind the bell housing. so basically hidden. ask a dealer, maybe a different dealer than the one you went to before, to check the lever for you.



-PJ


sorry, i just noticed you were driving an rs and not a wrx. the gear oil is in the same place, and mush easier to get at. it should have a yellow loop handle, and it will be pretty hard to pull out. just a short little dipstick though.

A couple thoughts:

-Its a boxer engine so it will consumer a couple 100% more oil than a typical V or inline. The oil sits at the base of the stroke where it is scraped to by the rings and burns away. Then it is sucked out by the PCV system and recycled through the intake.

-NEVER EVER rev the engine more then 50% of its redline before it is completely warmed up. You will do damage to the motor.

-Don't load/lug the motor when it is cold for the same reason as above. It is best to just let it idle and drive in the 2-3K rpm range until it is warm.

-It takes longer for the oil to get warm than is does for the coolant. Remember that.

-Use slightly thicker oil and it will not seep through into the cumbustion chamber as much as thicker oil. Plus it takes more heat to burm thicker oil.

-Sythetic oil will find holes. It is small and slippery and it will get into the cylinder and burn away. Don't use it during break in periods because it is too slick.

-There is a maintence schedule. It is there to ensure the longevity of the drivetrain and chassis. They use it to make money but also as a guide. If you follow this schedule either through the dealer or as DIY (keep a good log) than you will have very few problems.

-Learn how to drive and your car will last longer.

-Read, read, read, read. It doesn't cost much but what you gain is priceless.

Tim