I'm too lazy to post, so you are just going to have to go to my other post ( http://www.cti-club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=156 ) to see the images.

But here's what up so far...

Completed items:
Motor in Car :)
Manifold on
Injectors and fuel rails on
exhaust and turbo on
IC mounted to the front
p7's on the car


Coming Soon:
Finished Powdercoating parts (changed color to a rich metallic red)
Accy. Brackets onto block as well as accy.
Fuel and coolant piping
Wiring :(

-Paul

Looks great! GREAT documentation! Hey what color are you powdercoating the manifold? or are you? And what other tricks you got up your sleeve?
adamsrs

no porting? Seems like a lot of money to skip on such a big power producing mod.

wow! i love the look and feel of the cti-club website. *hint hint* :)

Very nice... is this going into a GC8?

Got a couple questions too:

What is the CR with your new pistons?

Where did you source the block and head castings?

Are you using the Eastwood home powdercoating kit? I've got to get some details on that!

What are your tranny plans?

Thanks,

Dan

Nice!

- Alex

your build up looks awesome.

Hmmm .... How come you didn't port the heads? It seems like a good idea, and it couldn't hurt.

Otherwise nice build up. Can't wait to see the end product.

Sorry for the delay in reply, it didn't e-mail me the fact that the thread was replied to.

Okay, to answer the questions....

Adamrs:
The Manifold will be sandblasted clean to the raw cast aluminum look. Then it will be powdercoated clear. I am also doing the same for the alternator housing. The are all currently blue, kind of cusco bluish.

As far as other tricks, I'm working on trying to get a wrx powersteering bracket on there for clearing of the intake pipe for the turbo. But other than that it'll be pretty standard, I ordered the 850cc custom injectors yesterday, and am just finishing up the rest of the powdercoating today.

ScoobyRS25:
If you mean the intake manifold, increasing flow would be marginal at best.
If you are refering to the heads, cobb is a rip off at $2500 for the work. As far as going to any old place to do it, head design and flow is very specialized. It take some junking of heads before a final product that works well can be had.
So to answer you question, yes better flow on the heads would have been nice, but I was not willing to pay all that money for Cobb to do the work, and do not feel there are many that can do the work properly on the subie heads.

meebs:
Might want to contact tonyb, he is the webmaster of the cti-club website, although he has gotten much flak from the New England chapter of the North American Impreza Owners Club(which CTI-club is a part of, but they tend to hold all the events in the northern states, making them very unaccessable to us CT people.) But this is all politics, so I'd rather not get into that. But tonyb does all the design for the site.

DanMan:
Yes this motor is going into the old GC8, Sorry to disappoint all you WRX fanatics, Will have pics of my license plate up when it gets here, CT dmv has already reserved it for me :) you wrx'ers should love it.

The compression ratio of the motor with the new pistons will be 8.5:1 This number will be double checked however before entering it into the autronics. (I have to cc out the old heads, and gasket. (deck clearance on the motor is around .010"))

The block was sourced from someone on i-club (sorry I can't remember your name) it is a phase II turn in block for piston slap, approximately 17,000 miles on it.

The head castings came from my local subaru dealer http://www.wiltonsubaru.com/ ask for Alan in parts, he was a great help to me. Let me borrow the parts manual (still have to return it, but might catalogue it in the computer first with the digicam) (much faster than the scanner, but doesn't look as good) the castings are available seperate from the whole assembly as PN: 11039AB265 for 98-2.5L SOHC EJ251+EJ253

Yes this is the eastwood home powdercoating kit, which is decent, but has it's limitations. I originally almost chromed everything and was going to blue over that, however the voltage output of the home kit is not strong enough to effectively attach the topcoat to the chrome. Therefore I had to spend an entire day striping and sandblasting all the crap. Then just applied the topcoat, which actually worked out, cause I like the finish of the translucent blue over the casting more than the mirror blue when it was over the chrome.

For the tranny, I'm gonna whine, Currently will be running the stock gearbox with the ACT street disk I've had for over a year sitting in my room. This is only temporary, as I will be upgrading to the MRT Straight cut Dogbox in the spring.

Imprezer:

Thanks :)

BongMan:

Thanks :) and see above for head answer.


Thank you all for your input, I will have more pictures up this weekend when I will have the last few parts I forgot to order til this week (crush washers for the block plugs)

-Paul

Oh, attach files is enabled, here is the blue:

Latest Pics are up, the motor is in the car, many many changes to original design plan....

http://www.cti-club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=156

-Paul

That's awesome man.

I gotta ask though, where'd you get all that nice shiny factory fastening hardware (bolts and what not).

I just did a swap on a buddies car and we had to use all the grimy ones off his old motor :mad:

Did you get the 17.5 housing on the SR40 or a 20? You sure its gonna flow enough for all that motor (and fuel)?

I can't wait unitl I have time to a project like this... oh, and the patience :)

Dan

Dan,

All the shiny factory stuff, which is everything (only the case, crank, and rocker assembly are used) came from Wilton Subaru in Wilton, CT. I spent many hours looking through the parts catalogs and listing all parts I needed and ordering them. I will warn you however, the Subaru hardware is extremely expensive and adds up quickly, my total list bill at Wilton Subaru so far has been a little over $4k.

As for the Turbo, I'm pretty sure it's the 17.5, it was a saga to just get the turbo, so I just took whatever SR40 they gave me, which is probably the recommended 17.5. It's really gonna have an effect on the spooling, and the car isn't even running yet and I'm already thinking of the SR50, but I want a very responsive motor, so it's going to be very dependant on when this thing produces full boost to whether I upgrade or not.

Beautiful photos!
You really took the SERIOUS approach to this project didn't you...
What are your plans for the rest of the car?

rentankonko,

As far as plans for the rest of the car. I'm going to beef up the drivetrain with either sti hardened drivetrain mounts (already have engine and tranny's) or with urethane mounts. I'm going to go with an MRT straight cut gears on all gears, still deciding on diffs, but those will get upgraded with the tranny.

Then for suspension, I've always looked towards the DMS 50mm, but that's not set in stone, and is way down the road

Brakes are my next upgrade after the drivtrain. I really haven't decided at all what to get. I'm probably gonna wait until the STi parts become available to check on the brembo setup. Then decide between that or probably stoptechs. I still want the prodrive/alcon WRC 366/305 6/4 tramac setup, but no one will sell them, I'll probably contact prodrive direct again later, they gave me SPD tuning as a source, and Mike wasn't helpful.

Body, most likely prodrive wing and front lip, and morettes with full HID conversion (my fogs are already done)

For the engine I have a few things left, I need to make the oil cooler later before I really start beating on her. The oil cooler will be top mounted where the 'stock' intercooler would have been if the 2.5 came turbo so the hood scoop will still be funtional. I also want to upgrade the radiator (one of the top mounts snapped anyways, so it needs replacing, epoxied together for now)

As for everything else, powdercoating all undercarriage components to keep it rust free and pretty, oh and aluminum control arms, anti lift kit, light weight rear beam, and a few other misc things.

Interior got my STI RA steering wheel coming in tomorrow, have the STI Ti shift knob, getting STi SSK when I do the tranny, and have the STi pedals on now. I will be putting in new seats at some point, and replacing the carpet with something a bit more plush.

MORE PICS TONIGHT.... IC mounted to the car, Interior (front is completely striped, just a mess of wires, it's funny), My pedals, My shifter, all the powdercoated stuff on the motor.

-Paul

Any other questions feel free to ask, sorry for the length of this post, but it was a all incompassing question.

Nice, I like your idea for the oil-cooler-heat-exchanger location.

Pics will be delayed 'til tomorrow night, forgot to borrow the camera tonight :(

-Paul

Paul,

Here is what happened to my cylinder #4 after only 6psi!!! Kinda looks familiar....


http://www.innovativelogic.com/blownengine2.jpg

If possible can you send me your specs on the J&E pistons??? I'd like to avoid the problems with them if possible! Where did you buy your rods? I might as well do them at the same time.(bradyg@innovativelogic.com)

Thx, Greg

Hey Greg,

As far as the specs on the pistons, JE now has the proper ones, be sure to specify that it is a phase II motor. The rods are from Pauter and I purchased them direct, best way, ask for Don, he helped me very much with my rods. I needed to have the top ridge by the wrist pin shaved a little to clear the pistons, but Pauter is extremely reliable in making sure you are happy with the product, and needless to say came out gorgeous, I highly recommend them. Don is a great guy to deal with.

As for your #4, looks very familiar. I didn't take a pic of something I noticed on the heads the other day, I forgot the camera again tonight, (dang it), so I wont have pics til at least monday, cause my friend is busy tomorrow. Anyways, I took a look at the head and noticed that the #2 piston (and the rest, but the number 2 most obviously) was actually fully streching, and smacking the head. The head has a slight indentation rings counter to the outer edge of the piston. I also noticed and you can see from my pics that the head damage is inverse to the damage in the piston. So basically I was knocking the pistons into the head pretty bad. However I would like to point out, that the metal on the heads was slightly indented, yet the head gasket remained fully sandwiched between the head and block. Upon draining the fluid there was no oil present, as well as absolutely no damage to the head gasket. I think this is a bit of a testament to the strength of the head gasket in the subaru motor as well as the head bolts. Although many recommend the studs for the heads, I think they may prove to be more of a novelty, I'd be very interested to see some actually test numbers of aftermarket studs vs. OEM bolts. I'm one for proof as opposed to some 'clowns' opinion. I've dealt with too many people that 'know what they are talking about' that really have no clue what physics is.

So end of the story is, I'm not saying anything about which is better, just saying I'd like to see some actual testing.

-Paul

Yeah, Sorry about that, I tend to get sidetracked and long winded (you should see my nasioc post on why the wrx td04 turbo is too small for the ej25, it's a prime example, but recommended reading)

Sorry, one last thing.... stupid funny, but anyways...

Check out the heads installed pic...

What color are the head bolts painted from the factory....

Why STI pink of course, that just screams performance

LOL:D :D

Newest pics are now up, check them out http://www.cti-club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=712#712

This is the current state of the project.

-Paul

Nice pics Paul, looks like the project is going great! I recently finished my STI IV conversion.

Here is a link to my pics: http://www.innovativelogic.com/car/index.html