Is the SR50 really as bad ass as APS wants you to believe. Is there anything out there that is better. I am getting ready to upgrade my turbo and so far SR50 seems to be the best bolt on.

I wouldn't recomend that for the street Nate. That thing will be laggy as hell man. Full boost wont hit until somewhere close to 5k. Increasing displacement or cams and tuning would make it acceptable though. Good tuning is always a must anyway. You'll have to give lots of love to your fuel system to.

What are your power goals?

k2

I want to be low 11's high 10's. I see that as being achievable with the SR50. I talked aps and they said it would come on strong at approx 4200 and with ported and polished housing would respond sooner and flows 768.5 cfms. That is huge. I plan on getting wiseco pistons and buschur racing rods and icreasing compression to 8.5:1, which is still ok for boost but will also create more bottom end power. I am not worried about a little lag I just want to be fast.

But i would like to know why displacement matters because I am still learning. If at all possible I would like to avoid that cuz stroker kits are expensive.
TODA racings is reasonably priced but I havent heard to much about the quality of there product. Deliciouspeed we should chat cuz you seem pretty knowledgable and I have all sorts of questions? Let me know

just bringing it back to the top. I really need some feedback. Please help

Displacement (especially through a stroker kit) will give you more torque == more low end grunt == you can leave the line before everyone else.
Then your turbo kicks in and you really take off.

stroker kit kind of seem like a ripoff. Instead of buying an entire kit could I buy the crank separate and then get the rods and pistons I want. I am led to believe that the crank is what increases the displacement which I can get for $800 and get a piston and rod set for about 800 which is only 1600 bucks compared to $4000 and up for a kit. My question is would that still work or do I have to get a kit?

You don't have to get a kit, you can put it together yourself. But you should get everything they include in the kit. Not just the crank and pistons. Usually it will include new valves and springs, gaskets for the rebuild, bearings. In the end you may save some money depending on what you choose to put in there, but it will be more than the $1600 your thinking of.

I havent yet seen a kit that includes valves springs and retainers or gaskets and bearings. I know I will need a stronger gasket as well as stronger head bolts. What bearings are you talking about? And why would I need knew springs and retainers. I wont be revving any higher that normal.

Crank bearings for one need to be replaced. That is for sure.
I have not looked into that stoker kits are available for the WRX. I have looked at other in the past and they all have engine rebuild kits to go with them. Most seals, most bearings. Usually when you are going that far you want stronger valve springs and in many cases a racing cam.

yes but is it a neccessity right away. Do I have to have racing cams and springs and retainers right away. I hear on a turboed car that is one of the last things you do. I also have limited funds at the moment and am trying to decide what I want to do with it. And looking at what i am doing in the future I see the bottem end as a necessity right now and just want to make sure I do it right. But thanks for letting me know about the bearings otherwise I would not have known.

I sincerly doubt the SR50 will get you to your goals. It only puts out about 10% more CFM than the PE1820 which will only get you about 330 whp on pump fuel. You are going to need way over 400 whp to get into the low 11's. You are going to need something in the order of a Garrett GT30 to get to where you want to go.

thanks bro. I checked up on the gt 3037 around the web and it gets great reviews.

Originally posted by natedizzel
yes but is it a neccessity right away. Do I have to have racing cams and springs and retainers right away. I hear on a turboed car that is one of the last things you do. I also have limited funds at the moment and am trying to decide what I want to do with it. And looking at what i am doing in the future I see the bottem end as a necessity right now and just want to make sure I do it right. But thanks for letting me know about the bearings otherwise I would not have known.

Its usually easier to rebuild it once. If you don't mind going back and redoing some stuff later, you can leave the top end alone for now. You won't hit low 11's on limited funds though, that is going to be pricey.

I know it is going to be pricey. All I am trying to do is find out what needs to be done and in what order and at what cost. I am not neccessarily on limited funds but why pay more than you have too and it is not like I am trying to do it all at once. Just one mod at a time. It is the best way to do it. I have already figured out that I am going to do my bottem end first before my turbo. Right now there is a limited number of companys that make things for my top end. JUN USA is no more and I can not find a vendor in the U.S. that deals strictly with japan. Trust me I have looked. Cobb tuning is way over priced and there is no way I am spending 1700 on spring and retainer kit. And as far as I am concerned cobb tuning sucks balls. Cams are the same way. Limited vendors. So as I assess the situation I can live with a weak top end for a while. I will do everything else and worry about top end last. By the time I am done which will be end of 2003 then I will find some cams and retainers and springs when maybe a couple more companies will have the things I need and little more information is out there on the parts. I am not worried about shop time cause I only pay $20 an hour for engine work. which is a fraction of what most people pay.