A friend of mine had a shop install KYB AGX struts, crucial v2 springs, and whiteline sway bars in front, and rear. Afterwards there was clunking in the front and rear of the car.
I removed the rear strut assembly and took it all apart, and installed the rubber seat that was still on the stock struts.

This removed the clunking in the rear of the car, but the front has a nasty clunk which sounds like it is coming from the passenger side.

I pulled the assembly only this time (day 2) and check it over and all seamed ok, but the fronts do not have that rubber seat. I also checked the sway bars which had plenty of grease installed on the mounts, and the drop links were bolted up fine. I reinstalled the strut assembly, torqued the bottom two bolts to 115ft-lbs, and the top 3 to about 10ft-lbs(used a ratchet cause my torque wrench doesn't go that low.), and hand tightened the ABS sensor and brake lines to about 10ft-lbs as well.
We drove around the block a few times, and the noise was still there. Kind of a clunky, grinding sound almost like metal on metal dragging. The odd thing is though, when the car is parked and I stand on the passenger side door sill with the door open, and jump up and down I can make the entire side of the car move up and down a LOT. I am a big guy too(280lbs) so I can make the suspension travel quite a bit. But this doesn't produce any clunk noise at all.

So this is where we are stuck. To me it sounds like it could be an axle CV boot, or wheel bearing. But there were no tears, and no sign of oil leakage on the CV boots, or splatter on any of the parts around the boot area.
I don't exactly know what the sound of a busted wheel bearing is, but I know that if you pull back and forth really hard on the top of the wheel that you can force a noise out, or see noticeable movement if the bearing is broken.

Other thoughts are that it might be a motor or transmission mount. Are the 06 WRX mounts filled like the STi ones? If so, how do I check for the engine mount damage?

Any and all suggestions you can provide are greatly appreciated!

..Matt

After I did my spring install I noticed a similar noise. I got a rubber hose to fit on the spring itself on the top because it was rubbing on the very top coil . Look to see if thats the case, if there is a spot rubbing on the coil you will be able to see it when you jack up the car. It was driving me crazy and finally all it took was a $2.00 peice from lowes to fix the problem. Also check to make sure the endlinks are tightened down.

When I installed springs on my 07 WRX, the hub "fell" off (not really sure how else to describe it) and pulled the axle out of the tranny a little bit. The car was still driveable but it was leaking gear oil a little bit and made a noise similar to what you are describing. You should check it out.

When I installed springs on my 07 WRX, the hub "fell" off (not really sure how else to describe it) and pulled the axle out of the tranny a little bit. The car was still driveable but it was leaking a little bit and made a noise similar to what you are describing. You should check it out.

Which side of the axle came out? I checked the axle on the tranny side and both axles looked like they were seated perfectly. I would find it hard to believe the hub side came out, but hey I am only a back yard mechanic. :)

As for wear marks on the spring, I did not notice any. The wheels are the stock 06/07 17x7.5/215/45/17 RE92A setup. I would be shocked if they rubbed the spring.

Thanks for the input guys!

Which side of the axle came out? I checked the axle on the tranny side and both axles looked like they were seated perfectly. I would find it hard to believe the hub side came out, but hey I am only a back yard mechanic. :)

As for wear marks on the spring, I did not notice any. The wheels are the stock 06/07 17x7.5/215/45/17 RE92A setup. I would be shocked if they rubbed the spring.

Thanks for the input guys!

It was the tranny side on the passenger side of the car. I almost didn't notice it. It was out of the tranny like a centimeter or two.

When you turn hard left or go over some bumps it goes clunk clunk clunk clunk until you straighten out and it goes smooth again

Would need a little more info, but basically AGX are designed for 02/03 type top hats, but the difference is on the rear. If you got the noise to go away then good, but it may come back and require some washers to make it fit properly. As for the front, it could be related to the install, but keep in mind that wheel bearings have a tendacy to go out often and generally show themselves when turning. I wouldn't replace it just yet, have it checked out first if you can.

-Adam

Would need a little more info, but basically AGX are designed for 02/03 type top hats, but the difference is on the rear. If you got the noise to go away then good, but it may come back and require some washers to make it fit properly. As for the front, it could be related to the install, but keep in mind that wheel bearings have a tendacy to go out often and generally show themselves when turning. I wouldn't replace it just yet, have it checked out first if you can.

-Adam

Thanks for your input Adam, I really appreciate it. I need to see you guys soon to do my timing belt, and possibly a motor swap. we can go get those cheese steaks that are freaking AWESOME! I've been tempted to drive up to Novato just for the cheese steaks. :)

The rears we have taken care of. It's the front now that has the mystery noise. I think we have a good check list now for this weekend. I'll make sure to post back with a follow up.

When I installed springs on my 07 WRX, the hub "fell" off (not really sure how else to describe it) and pulled the axle out of the tranny a little bit. The car was still driveable but it was leaking gear oil a little bit and made a noise similar to what you are describing. You should check it out.

I had the same exact thing happen to me, but mine came out on the driver side. All I did to fix it was jack up the diver side of the car to take the strain off the axle. And it "snaped" right back in place!!and now I cant get it to repeat the the same thing. Everything has been normal since.

How did you repair the situation? Did you have it checked out by a mechanic to see the cause?

I had the same exact thing happen to me, but mine came out on the driver side. All I did to fix it was jack up the diver side of the car to take the strain off the axle. And it "snaped" right back in place!!and now I cant get it to repeat the the same thing. Everything has been normal since.

How did you repair the situation? Did you have it checked out by a mechanic to see the cause?

I couldnt get it to snap back in, so I removed the CV boot, put the axle in, repacked the boot, and all has been well since.

Turned out it was the wheel bearing...

I am taking it to the dealership on monday. Hopefully they wont give me **** about my suspension mods (Sways, Struts, Springs), as none of that could have caused the wheel b earing

Turned out it was the wheel bearing...

I am taking it to the dealership on monday. Hopefully they wont give me **** about my suspension mods (Sways, Struts, Springs), as none of that could have caused the wheel b earing
Chances are they will void the suspension warrenty.

Chances are they will void the suspension warrenty.

warranty.

And no, I doubt that. the wheel bearing has more to do with the drive shaft, and wheel. Not struts, springs, or sway bars.

btw, all the mentioned parts Arya has installed are also equivalent to factory options sold at the dealership.
So I doubt anything will be "voided". The dealership can only refuse to cover a repair under warranty, not void it.

warranty.

And no, I doubt that. the wheel bearing has more to do with the drive shaft, and wheel. Not struts, springs, or sway bars.

btw, all the mentioned parts Arya has installed are also equivalent to factory options sold at the dealership.
So I doubt anything will be "voided". The dealership can only refuse to cover a repair under warranty, not void it.
True, but most dealerships that I've been to like to play the blame game and the second they see a aftermarket part find a way to say that it caused whatever problem is happening.

Also they cant void a "whole" warrenty but they can refuse to work on a certain area such as suspension and thus basiaclly voiding the warrenty on the suspension.

They can flag your vin#, so that way whenever you go to another dealership they all know it had been modified at some time. It helps protect them, figure if someone worked on some part of the car, then who's to say they didn't work on some other part too? I can kinda see why they do it, we see a lot of cars and many of them are just a mess. Basically if you mod your car you shouldn't need to go back to the dealer.

-Adam

Seeing as how none of the dealerships could help I am taking my car to LIC tomorrow @ 10 so they can see what is up...

The dealerships said there was no problems with the wheel bearings, but the sound is very bad, so I dont know if they knew what they were talking about or not.

I guess im in LIC's hands now

Seeing as how none of the dealerships could help I am taking my car to LIC tomorrow @ 10 so they can see what is up...

The dealerships said there was no problems with the wheel bearings, but the sound is very bad, so I dont know if they knew what they were talking about or not.

I guess im in LIC's hands now
Good choice, The guys at LIC are awesome guys.

BTW loving my V7 interior finally got it in today and the resistor trick worked perfect. Just need to steam clean the seats and everything will be perfect.

Jabel; good to hear that the seats are working out for you.

Arya; we'll see you today and hopefully have better results then your dealer did ;)

-Adam

Jabel; good to hear that the seats are working out for you.

Arya; we'll see you today and hopefully have better results then your dealer did ;)

-Adam

please post or PM me what you guys find. I am very curious.

+1337 For LIC

Turned out the problem was that my downpipe was so close to the transmission crossmember that on every left sweeping turn it would violently clash.

Everyone swore at first it was something to do with the suspension but the LIC guys took the time to look at every possible cause and ended up finding it and installing an STI Bracket so the Titek Catted DP would fit.

2 Dealerships, 1 Shop, and 500 miles later, and my car is clunk-free!

+1337!

+1337 For LIC

Turned out the problem was that my downpipe was so close to the transmission crossmember that on every left sweeping turn it would violently clash.

Everyone swore at first it was something to do with the suspension but the LIC guys took the time to look at every possible cause and ended up finding it and installing an STI Bracket so the Titek Catted DP would fit.

2 Dealerships, 1 Shop, and 500 miles later, and my car is clunk-free!

+1337!

who worked on your car initially?

Glad it finally got worked out, it really threw us for a bit, definately wasn't your normal DP clunk sound that we've seen come in. It didn't help that it all started once the suspension went on so naturally we went for that first.

***Have to throw this out there, but we didn't do any of the previous work, just fixing other people's work, just to clarify*** :)

BTW it wasn't a bracket, but an STi tranny mount

-Adam

who worked on your car initially?

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