So I will be a suby owner soon.

Any suggestions as to what mods I can consider?

I want to go in the handling route, so I was thinking of getting those improved endlinks for the sways, or better tires. I do want to get rims so the tires may have to wait...

well, before any of that, I have to break-in the car. I see two different approach to this.
1. Run the car somewhat hard to properly seat the piston rings
2. Run it just like the manual says.
I would do the manual way just to stay safe, but has anyone done the running hard break-in?

Thanks

what year and what model, if its brand new i wouldnt recommend driving it hard for a few hundred miles, also make sure u break in the new clutch nice and slow... post some pics when u get the chance... also if ur going to do some suspension work i suggest getting springs or coilovers for a nice drop... congrats on the new car d: )

First 1k by the book. Then you can leg it out. I don't think an engine is properly broken in till about 10K then you can do engine mods.

thanks guys,

well, I'm debating over springs or a full coilover setup.

I had a coilover system in my old car, but never touched it after I got it dialed in. Seems those prodrive lowering springs bring the car down just right. I was worried about how far to drop the car before it gives me diminishing returns(no shock travel, excessive camber, etc). I guess the 20mm drop from the prodrives, and KYB agx combo might suit me best.

But a question. These springs supposedly make the front and rear gap the same. That means the front springs drops the car more right? I have nightmares coming from a honda which I dropped only and inch, and the front shocks only had about and inch on shock travel(bump stops cut)... learned my lesson on that one. Can someone post a pic with these springs installed?

The Prodrives don't require new struts. They were designed to work with the stock ones

I did a re-flash as a first mod, it gets rid of that annoying flat spot after 6K revs, spools earlier and holds boost a lot longer, it's what the stock engine is begging for from the factory. an accessport is less that $600 and you can get it pro-tuned later when you get more mods and start getting rid of cats. Then rear swaybar...it transforms the turn in and reduces understeer, then get rid of those crap tires...

just my 0.2 cents...hope it helps. and welcome.

hmmm well if your looking for springs i recomend the tein s - techs i have them and the drop is perfect in my book... its like - 1.5 in front and - 7 in back sits perefect

Anyone here tried the moto man break in method? He's got some good points on breaking modern engines in. I did something similar when breaking my engine in and at about 15k later, no problems, strange smells or leaking fluids. Just smiles all the way. Mainly from pulling away from those ricers in the canyons.

Is this Adam?

Well i can tell you the best mind set for a new car, drive it like it will crap out for the first 5k hehe. one thing i had a prob. with was banging and letting the clutch down to late off the line, after around 1k tops i was fine and over it, drive nice and soft, easy brake mix with down shifts tell around 10k and the car is working great now 6+ k later. dont be to hard on it for atleast 5k or so and you should not have any problems, from what i have seen anyhow. My car is around 10 months old and at 16k It looks like it is just now setting in the best performance. driving a car like this you will want to put ever civic or mustang :) in its place but dont let that get the best of you off the lot.

Watch out for those Z06's , Merc AMG's , and Lotus Elise's . Enjoy your ride buddy ...

So I will be a suby owner soon.

Any suggestions as to what mods I can consider?

I want to go in the handling route, so I was thinking of getting those improved endlinks for the sways, or better tires. I do want to get rims so the tires may have to wait...

well, before any of that, I have to break-in the car. I see two different approach to this.
1. Run the car somewhat hard to properly seat the piston rings
2. Run it just like the manual says.
I would do the manual way just to stay safe, but has anyone done the running hard break-in?

Thanks

Getting better endlinks won't improve much with the stock swaybar. Upgrade the sway bar and get some solid endlinks and you will notice a world of a difference.

Yes, get better tires, don't ever go cheap on tires, they are the only thing holding you to the road. If you buy new rims, then you will need to get new tires, unless of course the car already has 17s or 18s and you just swap out to another rim of the same size. If you get rotas though, they are inexpensive enough to still have money left over for tires.

I did a re-flash as a first mod, it gets rid of that annoying flat spot after 6K revs, spools earlier and holds boost a lot longer, it's what the stock engine is begging for from the factory. an accessport is less that $600 and you can get it pro-tuned later when you get more mods and start getting rid of cats. Then rear swaybar...it transforms the turn in and reduces understeer, then get rid of those crap tires...

just my 0.2 cents...hope it helps. and welcome.

Damn Im almost there.....all I need is a accessport or utech (still deciding) and a sway bar and Im were your at. What type of exhaust set up do you have glenspen? just curious and +1 on what he said. My 0.02 cents added not 0.20 cents :P

Damn Im almost there.....all I need is a accessport or utech (still deciding) and a sway bar and Im were your at. What type of exhaust set up do you have glenspen? just curious and +1 on what he said. My 0.02 cents added not 0.20 cents :P

I firstly got rid of the up-pipe cat by buying a stock, gutted up-pipe from a guy on ebay, I then got rid of the 2 downpipe cats by getting a catless helix downpipe. My catback is still stock, and it means I lose a dozen horses on the dyno, but I get no police attention at all. All in all it cost me less than 350 to lose all 3 cats.

Get that swaybar changed ASAP, while your at it get solid endlinks and your car will feel 1000 times better in the twisties.

I firstly got rid of the up-pipe cat by buying a stock, gutted up-pipe from a guy on ebay, I then got rid of the 2 downpipe cats by getting a catless helix downpipe. My catback is still stock, and it means I lose a dozen horses on the dyno, but I get no police attention at all. All in all it cost me less than 350 to lose all 3 cats.

Get that swaybar changed ASAP, while your at it get solid endlinks and your car will feel 1000 times better in the twisties.


Damn never thought of going and just gutting the up-pipe. oh well. Cops real crazy about cars with exhaust? In Maryland and Virginia thier not to nuts about it. Last night there was a meet in Woodbridge, VA and there were so many cars the cops were directing traffic for it. There were some nice cars to The crew I was with had a 700whp S2000, Supra, RB powered 240, SRT4 (womp womp) and another WRX with a vf39. It was tight.

I was unsure on what mod to get next then I started reading about how swaybar and endlinks made the car lose that horrible understeer and makes it almost neutral. What swaybar did you get and what type of endlinks? How do you like your set up? I just want personal advice before I go buying anything.